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can anyone tell me what this switch is for?

post #1 of 23
9/29/05 at 12:55am
Thread Starter 

Hmm that switch wasnt there yesterday
oh ya! I put it there!
now my MS intellimouse explorer BT has an On/Off Switch so i can travel and not worry about taking out the batteries!
it has a sleep mode but in a bag its always getting pressed and waking up
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post #2 of 23
9/29/05 at 1:04am
wow,
way to waste your life
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post #3 of 23
9/29/05 at 1:08am
Thread Starter 
wow
way to waste a contribution to a thread
Maybe if you had instead decided to not post that you wouldnt be Also wasting your life
only way that post could be better if it was yours 1st post, now that would be grand
stop trolling a$$ munch
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post #4 of 23
9/29/05 at 2:30am
Good mod job. I personally just buy the ones intended for portables, since they turn off once the receiver is plugged into the mouse. Yours is a nice way to get the battery saving features in a full-sized mouse without popping the batteries out, though. Kudos.
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post #5 of 23
9/29/05 at 6:25am
I think it's very nicely done. Very clean install.
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post #6 of 23
9/29/05 at 8:11am
I agree, that's very nice work - looks like it's always been there. Really annoys me that the MS mice don't have this normally, I want a normal mouse rather than a smaller 'notebook' one but I eat through batteries because the mouse is always waking up while it's in my bag.

John
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post #7 of 23
9/29/05 at 9:35am
Going to post DIY instructions?
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post #8 of 23
9/30/05 at 12:26am
DONT TOUCH IT That is the self destruct switch!!!
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post #9 of 23
9/30/05 at 3:04am
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cutters
DONT TOUCH IT That is the self destruct switch!!!
[homer]AWWW CRAP![/homer]

well its really easy, all i did was
1: remove the top shell, 4 screws under teh feet
2: Solder in 2 wires on either side of the battery coils (metal coils the batterys make contact with, one side is connected to the PCB - the other is just a big loop
3: Cut the loop so that its now out of one battery and into a wire..
4: add a switch between the 2 wires so one side it connects the 2, other side only gets one.
5: superglue (how i did it) the switch in place, being careful not to overglue, s'how i lost my 1st switch, kinda glad radioshack sells them in 2's
(i also had to glue the coils back in place, the top part is used to hold them down, they stay in, but not to well, so i just glued the edges down)
6: check to see everything works and reassemble
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post #10 of 23
9/30/05 at 6:00am
Neatly done! I just made a tight 'case' using some of original package, 'memory' foam and velcro to keep it 'sleeping' for travel.

Interestingly, mine is completely different layout on bottom, label says "Model:1001" has a smaller (3x4cm) 'centered' battery door and only 'see through' is a 2x2cm window in that door.

Without putting a lot of value on my time, I could see many years worth of batteries for doing that 'mod' to mine. Will keep track and report, but the 'included' Energizers went for forty-seven days of constant use, love the 'feel' and 'action' and can't keep my hand off it
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post #11 of 23
10/26/05 at 2:50am
SlvrScoobie, is it possible to show a picture of the internal soldering, dont wanna screw this one up!
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post #12 of 23
10/27/05 at 1:09am
Thread Starter 
all your doing is soldin a switch between 2 points on the connected battery terminals, then cutting them so the only time voltage passes is when the switch is on
otherwise the bat. terms just act as a wire to complete the circuit from neg to pos on each battery
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post #13 of 23
10/27/05 at 10:06am
so I would assume the bottom right side of the mouse, with the two coils bridged together by a wire. That is the point to solder, and the cut?
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post #14 of 23
10/28/05 at 12:53pm
Nice job. I did the same thing, same wiring even, with my MX900 a few months ago.

Did you have any trouble getting the solder to stick to the cut battery coil? That was the hardest part of the MX900, I went through 4 or 5 old remotes taking the battery springs out of them.
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post #15 of 23
10/28/05 at 6:19pm
SlvrScoobie

I have been thinking about this also, question what is the part number of the switch you bought.
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post #16 of 23
10/29/05 at 2:12am
Thread Starter 
no idea, just went to r$ and got the smallest they had
and yes, the coil is a pain to solder
luckly i used the "if i solder aroudn the entire thing, it cant break loose anywhere" idea and gobbed on solder
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post #17 of 23
11/10/05 at 2:20pm

On/Off Switch installation

Still no intent of adding a switch, but; on replacement of second set of AA's (Costco's cheapest, lasted exactly seven weeks),
saw that it would function perfectly well with only one battery installed. This would indicate that on this model, (M60-00006 "Model 1001")
a switch installed to break connection between the two +/- battery terminals might not do what you want.

Second thing I noticed was that if you pressed the "make/break" button, you would then need to go through the Widcomm's Wizard
to restore Bluetooth connection and function of the mouse.
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post #18 of 23
11/10/05 at 3:15pm
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by pilotart
This would indicate that on this model, (M60-00006 "Model 1001")
a switch installed to break connection between the two +/- battery terminals might not do what you want.

Second thing I noticed was that if you pressed the "make/break" button, you would then need to go through the Widcomm's Wizard
to restore Bluetooth connection and function of the mouse.

MMm no, and... No

i havent tried the 1 battery trick but if you break the connection between the 2 batterys - Theres no circuit, its not in parrellel its in series, and therefore, a switch will break it..
Also, its only like removing the battery. i toss the switch it goes off, tomorrow i throw it on and it will sit there for a second, talk to BT and then like magic my mouse moves no reconnecting

so you can now remove your foot and try eating lunch instead
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post #19 of 23
11/10/05 at 5:00pm
You missed the point

What is true with your IntelliMouse is not true with the current model.

There is no way it could work at all on one battery if they were wired in series.

I did not know if breaking the current on yours would also break the Bluetooth, but it does for sure on the current version.

I just put this information up on your thread for the benefit of anyone wanting to add a switch to an M60-00006 "Model 1001' IntelliMouse.

There is still no doubt that it could be done, but would need to make the 'break' somewhere other than between the two batteries for it to work.

As far as dropping the Bluetooth's setup, would think that the way around that would be to 'switch' the IntelliMouse on prior to turning the computer on

edit: Batteries are aligned in opposing direction and that looks like a 'series' but all four connections go down to the greenboard. Battery #1 is connected [+] to "BATER051" [-] to "BATNEG1" and Battery #2 is connected to [+] "BATTERM2" and could not see a label for [-].

Removing and reinstalling both batteries certainly turned the IntelliMouse off and reinstalling batteries required nothing to be done with Bluetooth for continued operation.
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post #20 of 23
11/10/05 at 9:09pm
On the new model the batteries are not in series, but neither are they truly in parallel as manufactured, however you CAN parallel them up, though this does involve cutting and rerouting all but one of the battery terminals.
I used the smallest single pole switch available from Conrads in germany as because of the method of construction there is barely any room inside the mouse. The switch is probably less than a third of the size of the switch used by the OP.
if you leave your mouse sat on the desk when you are not using it , it will sleep and I can believe you get 7 weeks use of one battery, however if you are constantly travelling with it in a bag you barely get 2 as it constantly wakes and tries to communicate.





edit: - turning power off and on does not require re-pairing of bluetooth, it just works



Cheers to Slvrscooby for the inspiration to try this
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