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The Unofficial Sager "Arctic Silver" Guide - Page 3

post #41 of 120
1/29/04 at 5:13pm
here is something from the arctic silver site:

Important Reminder:
Due to the unique shape and sizes of the particles in Arctic Silver's conductive matrix, it will take a up to 200 hours and several thermal cycles to achieve maximum particle to particle thermal conduction and for the heatsink to CPU interface to reach maximum conductivity. (This period will be longer in a system without a fan on the heatsink or with a low speed fan on the heatsink.) On systems measuring actual internal core temperatures via the CPU's internal diode, the measured temperature will often drop 2C to 5C over this "break-in" period. This break-in will occur during the normal use of the computer as long as the computer is turned off from time to time and the interface is allowed to cool to room temperature. Once the break-in is complete, the computer can be left on if desired.

it sounds like the break in is achieved through heating up and subsequent cool downs when turning the machine on and off. also, 200 hrs would be about 25 days if you were to have the computer on for 8 hours a day.
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post #42 of 120
1/29/04 at 5:20pm
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by thenoser
it sounds like the break is achieved through heating up and subsequent cool downs when turning the machine on and off.
Exactly right. That said, though, the actual temp drops from the AS5 settling won't be very significant and will be more visible when under load than when idle.

Thanks for the extra info, thenoser!
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post #43 of 120
1/29/04 at 11:33pm

A look inside

After i did this Thermal Compound on my Laptop My fans are on most of the time but its not hot or even worm air coming out so i dont know why they are on but its sliteley worm aim coming out wile playing games like COD(1280x1024), BF1942(124x768), Marrowwind(1600x1200) in all games Details are maxed but i might open her back up to see if i did it wrong...
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post #44 of 120
2/26/04 at 9:16pm
You don't want a big gob of thermal goo...only enough to fill in the nooks and crannies that the lapping doesn't get. Even w/ 3000 grit paper, you'll have tiny valleys, etc. As to wet/dry, I don't see a problem. IMO, the main reason to go w/ wet sanding is to help lubricate the heatsink so that it doesn't catch as you move it on the paper -- insures a better lapping. But dry is fine as well.
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post #45 of 120
2/26/04 at 11:45pm
OK when i lapped the heatsink i for got to use water on the sandpaper will that effect any thing at all????
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post #46 of 120
3/2/04 at 2:52pm
Gartuitous needs to be made sticky bump
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post #47 of 120
3/9/04 at 12:44am
Can you use a rubber glove instead of a ziplock bag??
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post #48 of 120
3/9/04 at 1:10am
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kage777
Can you use a rubber glove instead of a ziplock bag??
Should work fine. The object is to keep the oils from your skin off of the cpu die so a rubber glove, latex glove, saran wrap, ziplock bag, etc. should do the trick.
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post #49 of 120
3/10/04 at 3:09am
wow... talk about the difference it makes! I finally got a tube of arctic silver, and applied it to my computer. Even though I was lazy and used their own directions (rice sized blob , directly on cpu), I can still feel a HUGE difference. Without paste, the fans were ALWAYS on when operating from my lap. With paste, the fans operate less than 50% of the time! It's incredible! Definitely a must for any sager owner...
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post #50 of 120
3/20/04 at 4:16pm
hey the last 10 pictures in the AS Guide are down!? I think it may be because IE won't let me download them cause i'm only at 24kbps or something.
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post #51 of 120
3/21/04 at 2:44pm
nevermind, but its crappy that no where was mentioned i was supposed to print in landscape mode :grr:
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post #52 of 120
4/18/04 at 9:07pm
It's been awhile since I've been around moving and the wife expecting and all. Well after two weeks of the new house the Sager finally got hooked back up. It ran o.k. but it seemed like the fans ran alot more often then they did before. So remembering the Artic Silver guide I decided it was time to do an inspection.

Problem #1. There was a HEAVY coating of cat fur and dust bunnies spread across the fins of the heatsink. Moral: do a yearly or even monthly inspection for dust. Just having clean fan blades isn't enough.

That's good enough reason for me to do some Artic Silver. So, far it's going well on my 8886. But I've noticed the following:

The chrome (nickel) coating on the heat spreader is VERY thin. You won't get the mirror finish like on the 8890?. 2000 grit was sufficient to remove the chrome. Luckily I didn't remove any where the CPU will be contacting the heat spreader.

Something else I noticed is that the heatspreading has layout/positioning lines for the thermal pad, so when you apply the Artic Silver only inside this area. This will save on the overzealous use of paste.

Glad this guide is here.
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post #53 of 120
4/18/04 at 9:20pm
Beakmyn, I believe the coating is in fact silver, hence the thin layer. Take a look at this interesting page, here is a snippet:
Quote:
At the time of this writing (July 2001), the top heat sinks are constructed from solid copper and cost in the range of $30 to $70. Some are plated with silver. The primary benefit offered by the silver is not its higher conductivity. The plating is too thin to substantially affect conduction. The advantage is the ability of the silver to fill small voids between mating pieces of the non-plated heat sink.
There is no worry to lap it away (I did it on my 5660). The AS makes the same job, just better.
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post #54 of 120
4/19/04 at 12:20pm
FWIW (and IMHO), having a silver plating between the AS and the copper heatsink is one thermal interface too many. I'd sand down to copper and only have between one and two thermal interface boundaries (CPU-Cu and CPU-AS, AS-Cu).
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post #55 of 120
4/19/04 at 7:59pm

It's done

Well I picked up some Artic Silver 5 from FrozenCPU.com (local for me). It's pretty thick stuff and difficult to spread so I used Artic Silver's instructions which actually don't require doing the heat spredder (if I read it right). I went ahead and did it anyway and then the cpu. I then wiped the CPU clean again. Then I put a grain of rice amount on the cpu and put the heatsink back on and gave a few twists to spread the AS and remove an air bubbles.

We'll see how it goes.
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post #56 of 120
4/23/04 at 8:03am
I can't see the pictures because I"m in china. Is it possible for someone else to host them?
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post #57 of 120
5/3/04 at 1:04am
my 5670 have been having over heating related problems lately... this silver idea sounds like a solutiion. i'll look into it thanks!

did you also notice how quite the is once the laptop is turned off, any solutions to quiet these fans...
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post #58 of 120
5/3/04 at 1:38am
just bought some artic silver online... i'm excited, can't wait to try this out!
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post #59 of 120
5/3/04 at 2:58am
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by philliopolis
my 5670 have been having over heating related problems lately... this silver idea sounds like a solutiion. i'll look into it thanks!

did you also notice how quite the is once the laptop is turned off, any solutions to quiet these fans...
Could you rephrase the question? I'm not sure I understand exactly what you're trying to say. My apologies.
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post #60 of 120
5/5/04 at 7:57pm
Has anyone used Arctic Silver 5 on a 8790? I was thinking about trying it, but was wondering what others thought first.
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