The Extreme Pin Modding Guide - Page 3

wimp.

Honestly guys, I dont recommend doing this unless you're an experienced overclocker and understand volt modding to the fullest. icepik, I'll help you out but beware that this is an extremely delicate process and you really shouldnt attempt it if you are the least bit uncomfotable with it and/or concerned with the welfare of/money invested in your laptop.

THe actually voltage needed all depends on alot of calculation, so what you need to do icepik is when you get your 1.8 is install it without the pin-mod, boot up, and see what your stock volts are and try prime95 testing it. (I dont recommend putting your laptop back together, see the pic in the first post to see how I leave mine while testing). From there give me the data and I can help you out. Basically, grounding VID3 gives you a slight voltage boost (up to 1.452v) and modding VID4 gives you some insane voltage (up to 1.6v+, which I dont recommend).

Yah, altering is the same as grounding.

lol, holy s***, you're more qualified than I am
Ok, what I used is copper wire from my PC speakers. Basically, it's a 7.1 surround set with 30ft. long wires, so I thought 1/4" from one of them wouldnt matter . The wire is made up of strands wound together, and one strand is pretty damn thin, I'd say like a thick piece of hair. You have to work it in a warm place as to not snap it, but if fits perfectly into the pin holes. As an alternative, and I've used it before, use the copper wire from a telephone cord. This is a little thicker and easier to use, but it's a tighter fit getting the CPU in over it. However, it still works. In either case, copper worked very well for me. As far as CHC went, I uninstalled the sucker just to make sure . Now my 1.8 booted into windows fine, but was only about 15 min prime95 stable, so it'd crash after a bit in any 3D application. What I did is ground VID3 along with the pin-mod. If you look at the voltage chart in the first post, you'll see that this gives a range of 1.452v to 1.340v over the stock 1.340v. Turns out I'm 100% stable at 1.388v, so I only needed a little boost. What I do to get that is select 1.260v in RM clock, but since VID3 is grounded (a zero) it gives me 1.388v (see chart). The benefit of this is I got the little voltage I needed. The bad part is that if the CPU still requests 1.340v, that's all it'll get. So, at boot up I'm technically unstable until RMClock kicks in. The other downside is that when the CPU goes from 800MHz to 2400MHz, there's a split second where the CPU will natively request 1.340v before RMClock makes it request 1.260v (1.388v effective). This isnt normally a problem, but if it does it mid game, sometimes I'll crash. To counter this, I just select maximal before I enter a game. Now if your 1.8 WONT boot at all, then you'll have to bump it up a notch and ground VID2. Now this will allow you to boot at 1.404v. I'll probably end up doing that myself tomorrow just so I dont have to deal with changing the CPU to maximal nonstop. This will send a little more voltage to the CPU, but not enough to make much of a difference temp wise. Anyway, lemme know how it goes

P.S.- I gotta thank prona for the discussion on this. It gave me some more insight and allowed me to retest some settings to really get a grasp on how to fine tune this stuff.

lol, no worries, we all once were. Look at the chart. Whatever you ground is always a 0, no matter what voltage you request. So, to find a voltage, all you do is look at the voltage you are requesting and then add in the 0s to get the actual voltage. For example, I just rearranged my pin mod tonight so that I have VID 0 and VID 1 grounded. At the stock 1.340v, that gives me 1.388v , so technically I dont even need an undervolting program to get the correct voltage. Now, my CPU will always be stable . Even more so, I can now select .748v as my low end voltage, and keep this CPU really cool . Hope that helped.

Wow, nice price kwondo. I had to pay $160 for mine, but I knew it was a good chip so I thought it was worth it .