Custom Paint Job =\ - Page 3

Well I'll post some more pics when I'm finsihed should be in the next 36 hours. I sanded the entire laptop but spent extra attention to the white siding, because if you paint over that finished it won't come out nicely so you have to remove it. I then applied a peach looking pimer. I let it sit for about 3 hours, then I apply a White Gloss Coat, And I'll let that sit for 24 hours, and then a ClearCoat so it can take Abuse from water, elements, and simple wear and tear.

The Sanding isn't necessary if you apply Primer, however Primer won't got on that Siding, so that's why I had to sand, so I sanded everything and PayedExtra attention to the siding, so that the primer would bond well.

I work with people around here on cars , as we exchange labor for various things, like I could get a paint job done for that price, because Labor would be free. I install Turbo's and just help out friends in need around the area. That 2-3 k price tag was on getting ahold of the paint Alone. And yeah I'm applying a coat about every 15 mins, one parts at a time, it'll be about 3 coats, I reffered to this link for my info,

Supplies:

- Ventilator Mask (If painting indoors)
- Drop clothes (Cover furniture etc, spray paint gets everywhere)
- Rubber gloves (Paint is a pain to remove off skin)
- Sandpaper (400 and 600 grit)
- Masking Tape
- Rubbing / Compound polish
- Sandable Primer (Gray Preferably)
- Primary Paint and Recommended Base Coat paint if needed

MAKE SURE TO FIND A LOW HUMIDITY AREA TO PAINT.

1) Took apart all of Lap top including inner welded buttons. The buttons are fused onto the case, so I used a soldering Iron to melt the Fuse spots on the plastic to remove them. Everything should be totally off the case, no exceptions.

2) Sanded the Primary Surface of case with 400 grit sand paper, then moved to a 600 grit paper to increase the adhesion surface for the paint coats.

3) Once all surfaces were sanded, I went over all the surfaces with a damp/dry cloth to clean off any sanding particles and dirt on case.

4) Used Masking tape to cover every area I didn’t want paint to get to (I removed all external labels carefully prior; you can mask these labels or remove them). Place Masking tape on any area you don’t want paint, otherwise there will be paint there no matter how careful you are. I taped the hell out of the case backsides and areas that aren’t visible on outside to avoid this.

5) Sprayed Sandable Primer on all parts or casings I was painting, placed one light coat, sanded with 600 grit, cleaned with cloth, placed second coat of primer and repeated sanding and cleaning.

6) Moved onto Base coat Anodizit used 2 light coats with touch up sanding in between. Allowed about 30 minutes for paint to dry a bit.

7) Then applied 3 coats of Anodizit Main Coat, all were light coats with about 15 minutes between coats. Did touch up sanding with 600 grit as needed.

Cool After about 16 hours, I left masking tape on and went over most surfaces with the turtle wax polish, avoid small areas like grills (Speaker and exhaust) the compound get stuck easily in corners and will leave a nasty white film or build up in these areas..

9) After I removed all masking tape and reassembled the body with parts. And left Case assembled with Fan blowing on it for about 24 hours to get all fumes to go away (Nothing like working on laptop and getting light headed from fumes).


The casing didn’t turn out totally how I wanted it because of all the mistakes I made in the process of painting it, and the only reason I am putting down the above information is to help anyone else from making the same mistakes I did.

Remember if you don’t have the technical knowledge to remove the electronics, the painting skills, the place to paint, the time needed, the money to help recover from Painting disasters, or you are afraid of voiding your warranty, Avoid painting at all costs, use an external company to paint or buy your laptop pre-painted (PCtorque is working on new painting options according to the sticky Adam put up on the boards).

Quarter Mile in about 12 or little under, It's really hard to break 10. Over the course of the Summer I plan on changing up all the engine components.

Stick, Auto is only good if you do Drag Races all the time, however I'm an Enthusist and enjoy Sprint Series, And the whole point of me getting a Supra was for Financial Reasons. Although you may say WOW you're spending A shit load of money, for the most part the SUpra Holds VAlue better then any other Japanese Car, And the PArts are fairly easy to get a hold of but the price tag is high. But there is a better chance that the automobile can hold value better, and the upgrades are easier on a supra. MAny of the American Cars like the Viper for Instance or a Corvette take massive amount of upgrades and even heftier costs to get performance boosts. The Supra is easier just because the 2JZ-GTE engine can take extreme amounts of pressure from Bolt On TUrbos, and still hold stability. People have claimed to get over 1000 hp off this puppy, but I'm only sitting around 750 give or take. Throttle Body is on my list next,

The only conversion that I thought was intresting was the 3 speed Chevy Big Block Conversion I saw a guy do in Illinois on his Supra. But Like I said if you actaully drive your car, you'll enjoy driving a 6-Speed Stick.

ALot of People have told me to pick up a RX-7 but the value of those are Iffy and the stability isn't there either. Yes they are impressive, but they aren't nearly as stable as a Supra, but I'll admit the parts are somewhat cheaper, and you can get great performance boost off of 'em.

It's actually fun to drive a supra, I mean not so much the power at your fingertips, that's just like an added plus. For the Driver it's roomy, there is tons of Space, even Hulk Hogan fits in the driver Seat. Now I'm not huge like Hogan, but it's nice to know that there is PLEANTY OF ROOM in the car. Driving around the coutryside, towns, just driving in general is enjoaybale in this car, and it's great to know that if I need the power it's right there.