Originally Posted by genax
if you can find a shop that can paint an entire car rsp for 2-3k give me the phone number. nice supra. i own an evo
I work with people around here on cars , as we exchange labor for various things, like I could get a paint job done for that price, because Labor would be free. I install Turbo's and just help out friends in need around the area. That 2-3 k price tag was on getting ahold of the paint Alone. And yeah I'm applying a coat about every 15 mins, one parts at a time, it'll be about 3 coats, I reffered to this link for my info,
- Ventilator Mask (If painting indoors)
- Drop clothes (Cover furniture etc, spray paint gets everywhere)
- Rubber gloves (Paint is a pain to remove off skin)
- Sandpaper (400 and 600 grit)
- Masking Tape
- Rubbing / Compound polish
- Sandable Primer (Gray Preferably)
- Primary Paint and Recommended Base Coat paint if needed
MAKE SURE TO FIND A LOW HUMIDITY AREA TO PAINT.
1) Took apart all of Lap top including inner welded buttons. The buttons are fused onto the case, so I used a soldering Iron to melt the Fuse spots on the plastic to remove them. Everything should be totally off the case, no exceptions.
2) Sanded the Primary Surface of case with 400 grit sand paper, then moved to a 600 grit paper to increase the adhesion surface for the paint coats.
3) Once all surfaces were sanded, I went over all the surfaces with a damp/dry cloth to clean off any sanding particles and dirt on case.
4) Used Masking tape to cover every area I didn’t want paint to get to (I removed all external labels carefully prior; you can mask these labels or remove them). Place Masking tape on any area you don’t want paint, otherwise there will be paint there no matter how careful you are. I taped the hell out of the case backsides and areas that aren’t visible on outside to avoid this.
5) Sprayed Sandable Primer on all parts or casings I was painting, placed one light coat, sanded with 600 grit, cleaned with cloth, placed second coat of primer and repeated sanding and cleaning.
6) Moved onto Base coat Anodizit used 2 light coats with touch up sanding in between. Allowed about 30 minutes for paint to dry a bit.
7) Then applied 3 coats of Anodizit Main Coat, all were light coats with about 15 minutes between coats. Did touch up sanding with 600 grit as needed.
Cool After about 16 hours, I left masking tape on and went over most surfaces with the turtle wax polish, avoid small areas like grills (Speaker and exhaust) the compound get stuck easily in corners and will leave a nasty white film or build up in these areas..
9) After I removed all masking tape and reassembled the body with parts. And left Case assembled with Fan blowing on it for about 24 hours to get all fumes to go away (Nothing like working on laptop and getting light headed from fumes).
The casing didn’t turn out totally how I wanted it because of all the mistakes I made in the process of painting it, and the only reason I am putting down the above information is to help anyone else from making the same mistakes I did.
Remember if you don’t have the technical knowledge to remove the electronics, the painting skills, the place to paint, the time needed, the money to help recover from Painting disasters, or you are afraid of voiding your warranty, Avoid painting at all costs, use an external company to paint or buy your laptop pre-painted (PCtorque is working on new painting options according to the sticky Adam put up on the boards).