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MSI 1032 review

post #1 of 33
Thread Starter 
Well I've seen bits and pieces of topics mentioning this MSI model but no review so here is my review:

MSI 1032 specs:
15.4" wxga notebook chassis includes nvidia geforce go 6600 and dual layer dvd burner.


At a glance -

Front: media player quick launch button, volume control, IEEE 1394 firewire port, mic and headphone jack, and infrared.


Back: ...nothing


Left side: power connection, USBx2, ethernet port, modem port, and optical device


Right side: 1x pcmcia slot, 3 in 1 card reader, hot air exhaust, S-video port, 2x usb ports (stacked), and lastly a vga 15pin connection. Some will scoff at the heat exhaust coming off the right side and it is a bit odd especially since its nearly in the middle and not even towards the back...but I don't think this is going to be much of an issue for me.


Top: Plain, no badging included but space for it.


Bottum: From the bottum you see 3 main things; hard drive access panel, main access panel, and the battery. The main access panel is a nice feature in that you remove 3 screws and you uncover access to nearly everything you will ever need to get at. At the same time I feel that a little more of a solid panel cover could have been used here with a bit better fit/seal. I would even be ok with a couple more screws however it does stay secure just fine with 3.


The keyboard/touch pad area is nicely layed out and comfortable to use. The palm rest area is adequate without alot of extra "dead space". I personally prefer as little extra palm rest area as possible to make what is available more comfortable when working from odd angles. The keyboard itself feels very solid and is not annoyingly noisy. The touch pad is responsive but not to touchy out of the box and the buttons are smaller but again to me seem to fit well into the design. Above the keyboard and to the right is the power button, wireless enable/disable, numlock, capslock, and hard drive activity led indicators.


The LCD dislay is 15.4 wxga max resolution at 1280x800 this is comfortable for me on this size of display. The display has a clear crisp gloss type view and even from extreme angles still legible with slight color washout...MUCH better than any matte display but not quite up to par as some true gloss/clear displays.

My build specs (less than $1100 total):
1.86ghz Pentium M 533bus
2gb A-data pc3200 (400mhz bus)
80gb Hitachi 7k100 5400rpm
Atheros 5006sx based wifi mini pci card

All the connectors where the heatsink touched something to be cooled had thermal tape/pad on them. I removed the thermal pad from the gpu core and replaced it with a small aluminum square with AS5 on both sides. If I come across some copper I'll swap it out but this was at least better than just the pad...hope to have temps shortly. For the processor I removed the stock thermal coating that covered the entire heatsink area, cleaned it, and applied AS5 to the the cpu itself. The gpu memory chips also had contacts to dissipate heat but I left them using the stock thermal pads for now.


This is a slight modification I made to the main access panel to give the cooling fan a little bit of actual fresh air. Stock the panel had two areas of vent slats, by their placement in theory one set would move air over the ram chips the other over the processor. There was no direct acces to "fresh" air for the fan so it would have been cooling the main copper heat pipe that the cpu and gpu are on with already warmed air. I cut 3 slats directly over the area the fan covers, completely sanded and re-finished the panel with close to stock black paint.



I am able to run stable undervolting with notebook hardware control at .700v min. and 1.020v max. Startup to idle temperatures have been low 40's C for cpu and and high 20's C for the hard drive (sitting on a flat surface). -this is just turning the machine on, booting to windows and monitoring for 5 minutes. Before doing the mod above temps would average around 45C for processor and mid 30's for HD...idle after normal use. (Most temps are monitored in a room controlled for warmer temps -reptiles)

Haven't done alot with vid benching but here are some marks -no overclocking has been attempted yet on any hardware in this system.

3DMark06: stock vid driver(72.71) - 1144
3DMark05: stock vid driver(72.71 - 2348
3DMark05: Xtreme-G MobileForce(84.25) - 2397

Will keep updating this as I find notable things.

-TW
LL
post #2 of 33
Thread Starter 
well I ran 3dmark06 with the stock vid drivers...no tweaks no nothing: 1144 not that I'll pushing any games that will make this system work that hard


Oh stock drivers that came with the unit: 72.71
post #3 of 33
Nice review! Have you tried running 3dmark05 on it?
post #4 of 33
Thread Starter 
no i have not yet i'll have to re-download it.
post #5 of 33
Thread Starter 
Updates:

I monitored the temps all weekend with mobile meter and got a pretty good idea of the average temps. Bear in mind the room I was working in is maintained at 80 degrees F +/- a couple degrees (we raise reptiles). Anyway in this environment I found that the average temp was about 45C, it starts out cooler and gets warmer when working but levels off at this temp when idle. The HD meter reads around 33-35ish C in this same environment.

Here at work I have had the unit on this afternoon for the first time on battery. My two coworkers and and I have our offices back in the server room so its kept cold here and the the msi is running at 40C and hard drive 28C after doing nothing more than downloading 3dmark05...it was a few degrees cooler after boot up at idle before I started doing anything.

I am considering modifying the main access panel on the bottum for better air flow. Stock it has only a couple small sections of slats and they are no where near the fan itself. The material is aluminum type so I don't think I would have any issue scoring a few slats directly over or closer to the fan itself...maybe even another choice location. I ran the system without this panel on in the 80F room I mentioned above and it was noticeably a few degrees cooler.

In any of my observing I have not found any part of the laptop itself to "feel" all that warm or hot to the touch. It did warm up when running 3dmark06 but that's a no brainer.

So far I have not found a single dead pixel and I do like the glossy display but it can glare pretty bad at some angles despite the "glareview" which is probably just another name for the gloss but is misleading.

The speakers are kinda small and at full level are just barely right for a movie with NO other ambient noise. However I have not played with the EQ yet which I'm sure will help this quite a bit. I have yet to test headphones yet either.

Other than that I'm considering dressing it up a bit maybe with some protective type rubber covering if I can find anything like this. Maybe something for the main lid to prevent scratches and something for the palm rests as I can forsee having less than clean hands while stationed in Iraq.

I wish I had a digital camera to point out some of the areas I am talking about. I'm still happy with the build and there is room for my own personal modifications but would be perfectly fine without it.
post #6 of 33
I have been considering this setup as well. I wonder if the video card can be upgraded???
post #7 of 33
Quote:
Originally Posted by PC Bliss
I have been considering this setup as well. I wonder if the video card can be upgraded???
As far as I can tell, no. I don't think the MS-1032 has a modular video card; maybe TekWarren can corroborate this. The system in my sig, the Quanta KN1-PM, has a modular video card that is theoretically upgradeable in the future, but since there are no actual upgrades for sale yet it's all theory and no practice at the moment.
post #8 of 33
i see....

And this takes DDR2? Some sites I have been looking at (Page Computer) for example, say its DDDR333 or DDR400 compatible instead of DDR2... But obviously if you are using DDR2 then they are wrong.
post #9 of 33
Thread Starter 
The video card is not upgradable unfortunately, but still for the overall price I wouldn't count this as a downfall. Also the system uses DDR 333 or 400 I am running 2gb of A-data pc3200 (400mhz) in mine and its snappy.

I just ran 3dmark05 with the stock drivers...no change from above drivers when doing 3dmark06. The 3dmark05 score on the screen right now is 2348...off the top of my head I'm not sure if this is good or just ok/normal. I don't know what other scores have been to compare to.

I think my next step is to get a game or two loaded and see how it plays. I'm thinking more and more adding some more vents to aid in the cooling, she did heat up pretty good this time running this latest bench.
post #10 of 33
TekWarren: That 3dmark05 score is about normal; I get around ~2500 with my KN1, so that's a pretty reasonable score for a 6600. Any difference in performance is probably just run-of-the-mill deviation, or slight differences in clock speed. Good luck with your vent project; having more ventilation is always a good idea. You might want to try undervolting your processor, too.

PC_Bliss: The MS-1032 takes DDR333 or 400. The KN1-PM takes DDR2 memory. Performance-wise, the two systems are largely the same.
post #11 of 33
Thread Starter 
I might need some pointers on the undervolting, I've read about it off and on but never had a chance to try it. I'm not sure how things will be durring my tour but I know it gets mad hot over there so anything I can learn to do that will keep things cooler now will be a big help to me.
post #12 of 33
Undervolting is definitely a good idea if you're concerned about heat. It can't actually damage the processor or the laptop itself; the worst you'll get is a blue screen, and that goes away if you adjust the voltage a little higher. The easiest way to undervolt is to download Notebook Hardware Control, and set voltages for the maximum and minimum multipliers. For my 1.86 P-M, I have stable voltages of 0.700V (6x minimum) and 1.100V (14x maximum).
post #13 of 33
Thread Starter 
Thanks for the tip, I've downloaded NHC and like the interface and features very much. I'll have to get all the voltages set. Do you suggest finding and setting the lowest voltage for each multiplyer or just the highest and lowest? I was thinking it might be worth the time to go through each multiplyer option.
post #14 of 33
I personally just have the highest and lowest multipliers undervolted; I find that since the system spends relatively little time on any of the speeds in between that it's not worth the trouble. I run my system on Dynamic Switching mode most of the time, and crank it up to Maximum Performance when I play games.
post #15 of 33
Thread Starter 
good point, I'll start with changing the max and min. I may still change the middle multipliers just for the heck of it.
post #16 of 33
Thread Starter 
well I have undervolted to .700 for the 6x The NHC and prime torture test both passed at 1.020V for the max at 14x but to give it some room I bumped it up to 1.036V

Question about the settings on the CPU speed tab...should I have the enable custom dynamic switching checked? I haven't made any changes here but wasn't sure if it needed to be enabled or not. I'll watch the temps and note any changes for the review. I still haven't installed anything remotely graphic intensive and I plan to try the latest xtremeG mobil force drivers.
post #17 of 33
Wow, that's some good voltage there! Looks like you've got a pretty good processor specimen there. There's no need to enable custom dynamic switching unless you're really picky about controlling your processor speed; generally, the ordinary dynamic switching scheme does an adequate job.

If you do download XtremeG (which I'm using right now), do note that it disables an Nvidia service that allows the driver to detect whether the system is on battery or AC power. This results in slightly shorter battery life because the GPU doesn't go into powersaving mode on battery. Fortunately, there's an easy remedy to this: after installing the driver, go to Control Panel -> Administrative Tools -> Services. Double-click on "Nvidia Display Driver Service" and switch "Startup Type" to Automatic, and make sure the service is started.
post #18 of 33
Thread Starter 
Just an update, overall I haven't seen to much of a heat difference maybe a degree or two but I still really haven't done much to make the system have to work hard yet. When I was doing the prime95 torture test for the max volt however it never hit 60c so that's pretty good. The power savings alone will make it worth it since I was able to get it down so low. If I get time this weekend maybe I'll install world of warcraft or another game or two on it and see how it performs.
post #19 of 33
Quote:
Originally Posted by TekWarren
Just an update, overall I haven't seen to much of a heat difference maybe a degree or two but I still really haven't done much to make the system have to work hard yet. When I was doing the prime95 torture test for the max volt however it never hit 60c so that's pretty good. The power savings alone will make it worth it since I was able to get it down so low. If I get time this weekend maybe I'll install world of warcraft or another game or two on it and see how it performs.
That's about right; undervolting really makes a difference when the CPU is at full load, where it significantly reduces the maximum temperature and consequently, the fan noise. For me, it was a difference between 68 degrees and 57 degrees, and now the fan runs only at its minimum setting when gaming or doing just about anything else CPU-intensive.
post #20 of 33
Thread Starter 
wow that's a huge difference, I'll be glad I did this for sure. Thanks again for all the input.
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