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No POST on Pavilion zv5000 - Page 2

post #21 of 35
WOW! I just ran into this problem. I had replaced my DC jack THREE times already. The soldering points just get so hot that it becomes loose again. I need to find a high temp solder. But anyways, i ran into the same problem with my ZE5185. I was replacing my DC jack and put everything back to together. plugged in the power supply, charging light came on without me shaking the cable lol then tried to power it up, the lights came on and then turned off. the charging light stayed on, but that was it. tried different batteries no luck, i guess i will have to give this a try.
post #22 of 35
Quote:
Originally Posted by ikenfixit View Post
Did the CPU stay attached to the heatsink when you disassembled? If so theres your problem.. Need to remove from heatsink and unlock CPU socket then reinstall and lock down.. (Small screw on socket).. The thermal pad on these is a tar garbage substance and ceramic paste works alot better anyway..
here is a stupid question. how do you remove the cpu from the heatsink? i tried to remove it but im afraid to put too much force on it because it is glued very hard. i will appreciate every kind of answer
post #23 of 35
Excellent thread everyone. My zv5000, which is 2.5 years old, decided to die last weekend. My symptoms are similar to the ones others have described: I press the power button and the LED’s light up, the fans kick on, and the hard drive spins for maybe a second. After that nothing happens but one of the fans continues to run and the LEDs are on, the LCD on the laptop itself also seems to have power as it will react to pressing the “lid closed” switch. I did try hooking up an external monitor to confirm that it was not related to LCD on the laptop itself but I knew this would not be the case because the hard drive was obviously not cranking away loading windows, etc.

I have tried most of the things everyone here has mentioned:
1) Removed the heatsink (blew out the dust while it was out), removed and reseated the CPU (mine is an Athlon so I have a lever rather than screw for locking it in), and applied some thermal paste before replacing the heat sink.
2) I have 512mb of Samsung RAM installed from HP, and another 512 of Viking RAM in the additional slot. I tried every combination of these chips (just the Samsung in the main slot, just the Viking in the main slot, no RAM at all, just the Samsung in the additional slot, just the Viking in the additional slot, and finally the Viking in the main slot and the Samson in the additional slot).
3) I removed the harddrive, DVD, and internal wireless NIC (but not all out at the same time)
4) Tried running with just the battery
5) Tried running with no battery and just the AC

None of this seemed to make any difference, with the exception of the RAM. At one time in one of the combinations the screen would flash and then have a series of white dots in a rectangular pattern. However, after moving the RAM around again I could not recreate this.

Does anyone have any additional suggestions regarding what I should try? A lot of people seem to have problems with the dc jack and/or power brick but this does not seem to be the case with mine since the lights are coming on consistently. Also, this laptop has spent 99% of its life sitting on the desk in our office and the power was rarely disconnected (which I assume contributes to the failure of the dc jack).

Help! J
post #24 of 35
Just had this problem.

Replaced the infamous plug (And epoxied it onto the board. I know it's probably not a good idea, but I did it anyway. I'll let you know what happens.) It wouldn't POST.

Found this forum, and tried reseating the chip. No joy.

I had dropped the RAM board while I had it apart, and thought it might be that, so I started it without the board in. It fired up immediately.
Just for yuks, I put the board back in and it worked. I'd had this board in and out a dozen times while working on it, and another half dozen trying to get the machine working after fixing it.

Ruminations on the contrariness of computers, anyone?
post #25 of 35
The the only things I have not tired are the infamous plug and removing the CMOS battery. I just don't think that it is the DC jack for mine, my plug fits in nice and tight with no movement. As for the CMOS battery, I can see it under the keyboard but there is some plastic framing that sits right on top of it. I can see how one can remove the battery without removing that frame, and that frame does not appear to an easy thing to remove.

I am thinking about breaking down and dropping it off at a service shop. I am getting prices of $60 and $95 to diagnose the problem (which kills me because I typically fix all my computers). The shop with the $95 price, Richard's Computers, will apply that to the labor if I have them fix the problem. If they are unable to obtain the part the $95 will be refunded.

Good times ....
post #26 of 35
One problem that I found with a Compaq Presario is that sometimes when disassembling / reassembling the laptop you can damadge the ribbon cable that connects the trouch pad, the front panel WI-FI and indicators to the motherboard.

In fact, I acidentally pulled a little to hard on the ribbon cable when I had forgot to release the ribbon cable lock while disaasembling the laptop to repair the DC power jack that had a broken solder joint. The result: I actually pulled a trace loose on the very end of the cable (the last 1 or 2 mm) and it shorted across to a trace next to it.

This caused simialr sysmptoms reported in this post: power indicator lit, but pressing the power button refused to start the laptop (no post). I only found the cause by accident. I dissassemeld / reassembled the laptop some three or four times and on the last assembly I actually forgot to plug in the ribbon cable. Viola' the laptop started but I had no front indicators, no functioning WI-FI button and no functioning touchpad so i knew what was causing the laptop to not post.

I found the problem when I inspected the ribbon cable. I very, very, carefully trimmed the damaged 1 or 2 mm off of the end of the ribbon cable with an exacto knife. I reassembled the laptop and it has worked ever since.

- Mike
post #27 of 35
Thanks Mike ...

I took my laptop to the shop this morning and talked with their HP tech. After telling him all the steps I tried his instinct was that the mobo is fried. They said they would still do the full assessment if I wanted to pay, but suggested that I would only be throwing good money at bad. For them to replace the mobo it would be $475 which is way too much to spend on an old laptop.

When I get home tonight I will try to take it apart one more time disconnecting absolutely everything I can including the keyboard. If that does not work, I am thinking about selling the parts on eBay and using the money towards another laptop ... a NON-hp laptop this time around.
post #28 of 35
I took it apart one more time, disconnecting ever component I could find (keyboard, touchpad, wireless nic, etc). Absolutely no change or progress. I did however take the CPU (Athon XP 3700+) out and put it in my HTPC which is also running a socket 754 Athlon. It booted like a champ so I am 99% certain now that the problem is the mobo itself ... since there is nothing left!

The bad news is that my new HDTV will have to wait a bit longer since it seems I will be buying a new laptop. The good news is that my HTPC is getting an upgrade out of this as I am planning on leaving the mobile chip in it after I figure out how to deal with cooling
post #29 of 35
Back as promised...

4 months of frequent use and power plug is still working just fine (Except that I didn't hook up the speakers when I put it all back together. D'oh!)

Power jack socket is epoxied to the board and the structure. No problems with heat or movement. I just hope I never need to get it apart again.
post #30 of 35
After reading all the replys here make me wanna think twice about fixing mine....NAHHHH!! ha ha I just leave it alone or pay someone $$$ to fix something I'm sure I can do myself! I have a ZX5000 series HP with jack probs.This is my first attemp to work in a HP but it can't be worse then my Dell 1100-5100-5150-5160 laptops I've had/worked on. If you know these models you know there killer on the MB's and jacks. Just a off the wall question here. I'm getting a new lower part of my Zx5000.HAs any one ever painted them? Like to have something other than silver and black . ALl my laptops have been silver or silver and black.Oh nad any suggestions on the tools to use for the power jack would be helpfull.Think "a friend of a friend" type of tools. I gotta use what a I have laying aroung or left over stuff. ever heard of Plastech? yeah that's who I work for so I been of more than I've worked in the last month.
post #31 of 35
My old man has a HP 5000 that is intermittently acting the same way (no POST). Do you think that replacing the motherboard made a difference? Ive found a few articles leading that direction.
post #32 of 35
and what have u tried so far to try to fix the issue?

cheers ...
post #33 of 35
yes yes yes, I have been searching all day and bingo landed here. I was nervous about prying off the cpu from the heatsink and now ready to tackle it. Thanks guys for posting!!!! I'll be back to let you know how it went. Next thing is finding the elusive cmos battery.
post #34 of 35
Did you take out the CPU? I had trouble starting my laptop after taking it apart. I had not locked in the CPU properly. Now it works fine but, my volume control isn't working so I have to take it all apart again to fix that.
post #35 of 35
Quote:
Originally Posted by Vern1980 View Post

A long post, I know, but I wanted to get all the details in. My brother sent me his zv5000 laptop to try and repair the power connector. He said that it wouldn't charge the battery and that he would have to move the plug around to get power. After doing some research, it seemed like a bad power jack, which is a very common problem with HP's. So I took the laptop apart and checked out the connector; it seemed fine. When I put it all back together, it wouldn't boot. My brother said that it worked before he sent it too me and I forgot to try it when I got it. The power LED and all the lights on the keyboard would turn on, the processor fans ran for about 3 seconds, then shut off, and there was no display or HDD activity. I figured, the motherboard probably died, which I was going to replace anyway. After getting a used one from Ebay, I put it in the laptop and it did the same thing. So, I grabbed a different processor and tried that. No luck. I have gone so far as to take the board completely out of the laptop and with just power and the display hooked up, no RAM, no HDD, no keyboard, and tried to boot. Nothing. I have also tried using an external monitor, with no luck there. The only things that have been common are the processor fans/heatsink and the power supply. The power supply voltage checks out ok, about 18.5Vdc. I am really at a loss as to what it could be. Is there some reset on the board that I am missing? I really don't want to put any more money into this thing. My brother doesn't really want it back, but I want to try to figure it out anyway. Any help would be appreciated.


 

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