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Acer Power/Charging/Battery problem

post #1 of 10
2/19/07 at 10:03am
Thread Starter 
Hi,

I hope you can help.

My Acer laptop that I've had for about 1.5 years is now is no longer charging properly.

It will not run of the mains at all. I tried taking the battery off but it still won't work - it will power up for about 3-4 seconds then just shut down.

Bizzarely, it charges the battery so at least I can use it, but as its not got an M processor the battery life is about 45 minutes!

Sometimes it won't charge the battery at all (It will flash orange instead of just charging) and I have to switch it on and off a few times just to get it charging.

If it is charging and I switch it on, it will stop charging and go straight to battery power.

I took it to my local PC super store and they seemed baffled saying they'd never heard of such an issue!!...

Can anyone help?

I've tried buying a new charger which made no difference at all.

Thanks,
Gordon.
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post #2 of 10
2/19/07 at 10:06am
Thread Starter 
I should have added that it is as follows:

Acer TM2702WLMI

Thanks again,
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post #3 of 10
2/20/07 at 9:12pm
Allthough I have no issues with charging the battery, but I suppose the reason it has maximum of 50 minutes is cus it is quite old and worn out.

I have a Ferrari 3200
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post #4 of 10
2/21/07 at 4:27am
Thread Starter 
Any idea why I can't run it off the mains or have the battery charging while I am using the laptop?

Thanks.
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post #5 of 10
3/1/07 at 5:49am
I am having the same issues myself and am wondering if the connection is just too deep into the notebook so the contacts are just at that point like if you flip a light switch exactly in between on and off and you see buzzing and dim lighting. I'm going to try to open and pop it forward if I can. It's rather annoying and it makes and electrical squeeking noise on top of that. You have to hold it just right to charge.
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post #6 of 10
3/29/07 at 6:41pm
So my laptop jack connection didn't need touched up on the soldering bit, but rather the whole jack itself needed replaced. See the problem was that I had moved the plug around in there so much while I owned the notebook that pieces had become worn and a couple plastic pieces had snapped off that form the hole and keep the plug in place. (I suppose it's my fault with how much I traveled the country) Without this the internal switch mechanism wouldn't move to redirect the current to run the laptop on AC and charge the battery (which holding it in really tight or 'just right' remedies for a short time). I acquired rather cheaply the replacement jack and had the old one unsoldered, removed, and then the new one soldered in its place. The laptop works perfectly now!



The Acers are rather annoying to disassemble but it beats tossing a perfectly fine laptop. Does this info help answer your questions?
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post #7 of 10
9/13/07 at 12:20pm
I'm having the exact same problem with my 2200.

Rogue, where did you get the part? And also, any tips on getting everything pulled apart? Pull the bottom and work from there, or pull the keyboard out and work from the top?
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post #8 of 10
9/14/07 at 2:11am
Well sometimes there are screws hidden in recesses underneath the keyboard that hold something like the optical drive in place. You sometimes have to keep flipping the laptop over and over and sometimes you need to remove the screw sockets from the VGA port to be able to remove the casing fully to even get to the jack. I went to laptopjacks.com
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post #9 of 10
9/15/07 at 5:49am
Quote:
Originally Posted by rogue_boy View Post
I went to laptopjacks.com
Whoa, they're expensive, they want $25 USD for one stinkin jack! I went to http://www.dcpowerjacks.net/ they are on ebay too. http://search.ebay.com/_W0QQsassZdcp...QQfsooZ1QQrdZ0? Got mine for 9 bucks!! Here's a link to what I believe is the correct jack for your TravelMate 2700. http://search-desc.ebay.com/search/s...trypage=search and/or http://www.dcpowerjacks.net/catalog/...products_id=67 Strip yours down and compare it with what you see in the ad. The center pin size of this jack is 2.5mm. Beware center pins widths can be different. It's hard to measure if you don't have any calipers, but you can eyeball it with a ruler.
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post #10 of 10
9/16/07 at 3:03am
Yeah it's one of many places and I didn't want to go to eBay for it because of a dislike for paypal. Either way It beats replacing the whole motherboard if you can solder.
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