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Acer Aspire 1710 Review - Page 48

post #941 of 1526
Quote:
Originally Posted by kryten16
Hi guys,

My 1711's back from its trip to the Acer UK repair centre and the 128mb nvidia graphics card has arrived from their spares department as well. Its time for me save my baby from the useless integrated graphics and give it a new lease of life with the nvidia solution. One thing troubles me though, and i'm hoping you guys can help. My problem is this, i need to know exactly how to install the graphics card, what to plug in etc etc, basically how to get the thing in the machine. I've done tons of building of desktop machines but never a laptop. Please help guys, am scared of destroying my baby and flushing £200 of graphics card down the loo. So a walkthrough of the process would be much appreciated, or even better a pdf of the service manual, then i can do it myself. Then i post pics for you when it works!!!!
I've had my 1712 apart several times in the last week; I'll give it a go.

This is very long - sorry. Read all the way through before you start.
I'm a little skeptical that the 1711 and the 1712 use the same m/b -
so this may not work.

Facing your system as you normally would, the vents for the GPU are the
little bitty slots under the audio and Firewire connectors. The secondary
CPU cooler exhaust is the next one towards the rear (where most of the
heat and noise come out). The next one towards the rear is the primary
CPU cooler exhaust (between the USB and power connector).

Put the system on something like a shirt on a table (so you don't scuff it
up). Close the lid and flip it over, back to front.

Remove the bottom plate (7 screws). The screws may want to stay with
the plate; let them. There's a little tab to lift it with near the side facing
you (the rear panel). Tilt the panel up no more than 1/3 towards vertical,
then slide it towards you. There's a flange on the left rear portion of the
cover that fits into the case.

Now you see all the guts. The big shiny assembly with the fans in it on
the lower RIGHT is the CPU/chipset cooler. Don't remove it; you'll need to
replenish the CPU thermal transfer compound on the cooler if you do.
There's nothing interesting under there except the CPU.

On the lower LEFT you'll see the hard drive; upper LEFT you'll see the
DVD player. (BTW - you can remove the entire DVD drive by removing the
one screw in the little flange sticking out of the back of it.)

The upper RIGHT is where the plug-in GPU goes. The part you ordered should
be about six inches long by about three wide by about one deep. Most
of it should consist of a shiny metal cooling housing with a fan in it. The
underside (circuit board side) should have a connector sticking out of the
circuit board.

CAUTION: DO NOT HANDLE THE PART UNTIL YOU ARE READY TO INSTALL IT.
Static electricity you could never detect could destroy it.

Turn off power to the system. Remove the battery (top section, five
screws which are loose and will drop inside your system. (-8 )
Turning off the power is very important. Be aware that if you accidentally
push one of the "CD player" buttons on the front edge of the system it may
try to power on. You can disable these with Fn-F9.

You *should* get an anti-static mat and wrist strap to work on your system
(although few but professionals do). The idea is to ensure that there is
no static electricity on either you or the system which could flow from one
to the other - potentially through some part that will be fried by it. The
simple way to ensure this is to touch some unpainted metal part on your
system before you work on it or touch your new part. DON'T touch any
circuit board or circuit board contact to do this.
The CPU cooler housing or one of the ground connections to
the hard drive frame are ideal. Touch one of these before doing anything,
before you touch your new card, and occasionally while you're working and
you should be okay. (Technically you should turn off power to the power
adapter but leave it plugged in so the system is grounded to earth. Power
strips usually can switch off power but leave the ground connected.)

The GPU assembly goes on the upper-right part of the motherboard. There
should be a white connector slot about 2.5" long about two inches down
from the top of the m/b, and about three inches in from the right side,
running left to right. The GPU plugs into that, with the cooling housing
extending over to the right side of the case. When oriented correctly, there should be a small white connector on the lower left corner of the GPU
assembly. The GPU is held in place by four screws, two that you have to
put through holes in the cooling housing on the right, and two on the left
edge, top and bottom. (You did think to order screws, right?). The left
two screw holes are on standoffs about 1/4" above the m/b. I hope they
are on your m/b. Remember, the screws only need to be tight enough to
hold everything in place and not work loose. Stripping them would not be
good.

Last step is to connect the LCD cable to the small white connector on the
GPU card. On my system the cable comes down from the LCD through the
left hinge (looking at the upside-down system, rear panel facing you). It
snakes to the right along the hard drive frame and then towards the top
under the memory. You can probably just lay it across the memory instead
of removing it and running the cable underneath.

This last part is interesting, as I did not see a connector on my m/b anywhere
for the LCD to use the onboard GPU, so I don't know where yours will currently be connected - or if the cable will be long enough. I expect it will
be, though. I'd be interested in a pic of your m/b while your system's apart.
I don't have a digital camera or I'd post one of mine.

Be careful disconnecting the LCD cable (in a black sheath, small white
connector with about twenty tiny wires on it. DO NOT PULL ON THE
WIRES TO DISCONNECT IT. If you pull wire out or break them, you need
a serious repair guy or a new LCD ($700). Use a small tool to pry it evenly
out of its socket. Mine didn't have any locking mechanism on it. Plug it
into the new GPU. The socket and connector are keyed, so they'll only
connect one way.

I suggest testing it with the system still open. Keep the LCD flat on the
table, and open the system so that the base is vertical. Check everything,
rub rabbit's foot, connect power, turn on. You should see something on the
screen almost immediately, just as usual. The fan on the GPU unit should
start immediately.

I do NOT know how to disable the onboard GPU. Usually you can do this
in the BIOS, but this BIOS has no such option. So either the BIOS
will detect your new GPU and disable the onboard one - or it won't, and
you'll have TWO GPUs in your system. I just checked, and my system has
only one GPU listed in device manager.

Intel has two different 865 chipsets, one with the built-in GPU, and one
without. I suspect the 1711 m/b has the one with, and the 1712 and later
the one without.

I'm a little suspicious that the m/b in the 1711 may be different than the
1712 and later. If so you may be out of luck. Call Acer and find out if
they are before you open the GPU - you might need to send it back.

Good luck - let us know what happens.

- Eric
post #942 of 1526
Quote:
Originally Posted by DWStrickland
Have you tried removing the AGP video card? I can't remember off the top of my head if the LCD cable is directly attached to the video card or not.
It is.

- Eric
post #943 of 1526
Quote:
Originally Posted by ZZTOP77
I just waste last 24 h on my lappy just trying find some good GPU drivers.
& i must say, the factory one are got best benchmarks.
With each drivers , what was accepted my lappy , i try bechmark without o'c, with default o'c & with max o'c , each of them with performace & high performace settings.
The performace got better score then high performace.
The omega drivers 61.77 got 90 marks less then the stock 53.51
I did try almost every driver from http://www.laptopvideo2go.com/ & i do not find better one then that stock 53.51
I agry that the drivers that came with the laptop have slightly better performance than that of the omega, but there are problems with some of the latest games, for example NFSU2. The problems are solved with the Omega drivers.
So, don't you prefer loosing 90 points from the benchmarks, but be able to play everything?
post #944 of 1526
Also, I figured out what is happening with the Num Lock indicator Led which I posted some posts before.

I have an external PS/2 keyboard connected and somehow it makes the problem with the LED of the laptop. Now, I have the keyboard connected the last two months and there wasn't this problem.

I still don't understand.
post #945 of 1526

Misc repair info

Acer Tech Support: 800 816 2237
Select '4' to order parts.

The lady I spoke to knew what "POST" is, and understood my explanation
of the problem (much to my surprise).

The Nvidia GPU:
Part number: VG.A1509.007 $283.63

The m/b (1712SMI):
Part number: LB.A1506.001 $320.60 currently out of stock (!)

Out-of-warranty flat rate service (covers replacing up to "3 major parts"):
$449 (!!)

So y'all might consider the extended warranty.

Acer claims they have a tech support website (www.acersupport.com),
but it's been down when I've tried to get to it.

I sent a message describing my problems to their 'email support". This is
the response:
"
Dear Theis,

Thank you for contacting Acer America. Technical support provides assistance up until the point where repair is necessary. We do not provide repair information. Therefore to arrange for service, I would suggest you contact our telephone technical support line at 1-800-816-2237 option 1 to arrange for service. Hours of operation for live support are 7am-9pm Monday-Friday and 8am-5pm CST Saturday and Sunday, excluding holidays.

Respectfully,
Bernice Craig
Acer America E-Mail Technical Support

Name: Eric Theis
E-Mail:
Phone Number: 818
Serial Number: LXA150509941201c0cef00
Part Number:
DS Number:
Date Purchased: 11/15/2004
Subject: Configuration/Hardware
Operating System: Windows XP

Question / Problem:

I recently bought an Acer Aspire 712SMI, which has worked perfectly. Tonight I took removed
the memory, disk, GPU, and CPU cooling
assemblies, to see how things are put together.
Put it all back together and now the system will not POST. Power light comes on, fans come
on, not a flicker on the screen, no beep, no
POST activity at all. The DVD drive seems to
initialize. I am quite sure I did not miss
any connections.

I am NOT a novice user; I have been building
systems for years. I was for years a senior
kernel software engineer for Sun Microsystems.
I know my way around a PC.

I looks to me like the Power Good signal is
never coming up - although I have no way to
verify that.

Recommendation?

- Eric Theis
"
post #946 of 1526

Dead 1712 - REVIVED!

My problem (see also previous posts):

"I recently bought an Acer Aspire 712SMI, which has worked perfectly. Tonight I took removed
the memory, disk, GPU, and CPU cooling
assemblies, to see how things are put together.
Put it all back together and now the system will not POST. Power light comes on, fans come
on, not a flicker on the screen, no beep, no
POST activity at all. The DVD drive seems to
initialize. I am quite sure I did not miss
any connections."

After a LOT of tinkering and anguish, I figured it out.

ONE of the two memory sticks is fried. When it's installed I see the problem.

At one point when I was initially disassembling the system I noticed to my
horror the "memory powered" led was lit while I was removing the memory.
System power was off and the power adapter was disconnected but the
battery was still connected, still feeding power to the memory. (I don't
know for sure that's what that LED means, but it sure acts like it.) The
service manual makes no mention of this LED.

You are never supposed to replace any (non-hotplug-capable) component
while power is on. So I suspect this is when I toasted my memory - on
battery power.

Installing a single (good) memory stick in the top slot lets the system work
fine. Installing the 'bad' one in either slot, alone or in combination with a
good one, causes the failure above. The system runs fine (typing on it now)
with a single stick in the top slot. Didn't try a single stick in the bottom slot.
The service manual does not mention this possibility, and in fact the
service procedures don't even mention checking/swapping the memory!
I was -this- close to sending my system in - probably for a new m/b.

Moral: REMOVE THE BATTERY when working on your system!

Note desktop motherboard/power supplies are like this too - you MUST
physically turn off the switch on the power supply and wait for the LED
to go out or you can fry the memory if you replace it. (I've accidentally
done this a few times and never killed anything - 'till now).


Now that I need some new memory...can anyone suggest specs for a
replacement set? Does the system actually use DDR 400 at speed?

- Eric
post #947 of 1526

Integrated Intel 865G graphics controller

I got curious about this. (Always a dangerous thing).

I connected an external monitor and booted. The POST and BIOS
messages appeared on the external monitor only. As soon as Windows
started, it switched back to the LCD.

Once Windows was up, you can configure the second monitor into your
desktop - and use both together as a single desktop. Very cool.

Apparently both monitors are driven from the Nvidia card, as the Nvidia
driver screen is where you do all the settings for this.

Next I removed the Nvidia card (leaving the LCD cable dangling, as there's
no place to connect it) and booted with an external monitor connected.
It booted, everything showing up on the external monitor. Windows popups
and the device manager indicate it detected "new" hardware, the 865G
GPU.

So apparently the BIOS figures out whether there's an add-in GPU connected
to the AGP connector, and disables the onboard 865G GPU if so - and
enables it if not.

For the guy adding in an Nvidia GPU to his 1711 - I'd be very interested to
know where the LCD cable is -currently- connected. My bet is there -is-
a card in the GPU slot, but it just provides the DVI interface for the 865G
to talk to the LCD.

BTW - when running on the 865G - on the external monitor - it would
only allow up to 1280x1024.

- Eric
post #948 of 1526
Cheers eric for the brilliant walkthrough on the addition of the new graphics card to my 1711, its really helpful and will take alot of the pain out of doing it. I'll post loads of pics for you of everything in there, the operation is scheduled for sometime this weekend when i've got time to do things properly rather than rush and send it all back to acer again lol. looking forward to some doom3 action on monday at last............
post #949 of 1526
Yes, the Acer Aspire 1710 detects and supports PC3200 memory. The fastest memory with the lowest latency you could put in this machine would be Kingston's HyperX or Corsair's TwinX memory series in my opinion.

In regards to the built-in GPU, I figured the integrated graphics would work without the GPU installed since the chipset is the 865G and you even notice that Intel's graphics icon is in the control panel even when the GeForce FX Go series is installed. This is nice to know for emergency situations when possibly one is without the add-on AGP card (hardware problem, etc.).

I would be interested to know where the LCD cable attaches however on the models that ship with the integrated Intel 865G video enabled.
post #950 of 1526
Hello!

My 1714SMi arrives tomorrow. Can´t hardly wait it anymore I´m going to use it mainly for music production. I got a question though and I think you guys can help me out. I´m planning to use it with Yamaha 01X digital mixing studio which is an MLan FireWire device. Are IRQ´s of those two firewire ports on 1714 shared with other devices (onboard sound, USB2 etc) or not? Because it´s quite crucial for 01X to use firewire ports which are UNSHARED. If those FireWires on 1714 are shared, can I make some changes in BIOS to assign firewire ports to unshared IRQ-s? Or should I go after PCMCIA firewire adapter?

thnx,
eb
post #951 of 1526

Hey guys

Got something to show you

YEAAAAAAH

On full throttle
post #952 of 1526
ZZTOP77, have you tried 3DMARK 2005?
post #953 of 1526
Quote:
Originally Posted by panther5
ZZTOP77, have you tried 3DMARK 2005?
Yeah

177 3DMark05 no O'C ( 150/350)
571 3DMark05 with O'C 350/580 ( default performace 3D O'C )
686 3DMark05 with O'C 414/714
post #954 of 1526
I repartitioned my disk and reinstalled with XP Pro (not the XP Home version that
came with it).

Everything works - except two things:
- The system no longer will hibernate or suspend when I leave it on (I have set
the power settings appropriately)

- The "CD player" buttons along the front edge no longer work.

Anybody solve these problems?

- Eric
post #955 of 1526
yeh, try reinstalling the software for the cd player as they do actually require drivers in order to work, try http:///www.acer.co.uk and look on their ftp site, they have them there. As for the hibernate issue i read a forum about this elsewhere, i think the conclusion was that you have to download a patch from microsoft.com, you'll just have to search for hibernate when you get to the appropriate part of the website.

Dave
post #956 of 1526
I just bought one of these 1712's. Great machine. Bought a 300G seagate from best buy for $190. Opened it up, popped it in, installed XP pro manually, added drivers and SP. Everything works fine.

Now I want 2G of memory instead of 1. I have been pricing memory on various places like newegg and zipzoomfly. I really dont want to spend the $560 dollars on the Kingson HyperX memory, but will if I have to.

I have seen some 1G memory modules (usually CAS 3 or some off-brand) for around $120 a stick (total = $240 for two sticks).

Also, do I need PC3200? Will PC2700 suffice? What kind of performance benefit will I approximately see for PC2700 (DDR333) vs PC3200 (DDR400) in percentage? Does this justify the expense?

If I use the cheap stuff, will I get spurious BSOD?

Please advise
post #957 of 1526
The Kingston HyperX series is pretty much the best memory you could put in this machine, but it is expensive. Corsair TwinX would the the other best option with Kingston. The reason the Kingston and Corsair are nice is because you buy the memory in matched pairs so there will be no problems with the dual channel mode as far as incompatibilities and memory errors.

No matter what you buy, you want to get the exact same memory in each slot so you do not run into problems with the dual channel features of the memory controller.
post #958 of 1526
Quote:
Originally Posted by Eric_Theis
Next I removed the Nvidia card (leaving the LCD cable dangling, as there's
no place to connect it) and booted with an external monitor connected.
It booted, everything showing up on the external monitor. Windows popups
and the device manager indicate it detected "new" hardware, the 865G
GPU.

So apparently the BIOS figures out whether there's an add-in GPU connected
to the AGP connector, and disables the onboard 865G GPU if so - and
enables it if not.

For the guy adding in an Nvidia GPU to his 1711 - I'd be very interested to
know where the LCD cable is -currently- connected. My bet is there -is-
a card in the GPU slot, but it just provides the DVI interface for the 865G
to talk to the LCD.

- Eric
Thanx Eric, for finding this out.
If someone knows how to get the internal graphics controller to work on the LCD screen, please share this info.


WJ

Acer Aspire 1712SMI - Intel Pentium 4 3.0GHz, 1GB RAM , 120GB Seagate HDD (7200 RPM), 17" SXGA (1280x1024) LCD, NVidia GeForce FX Go 5700 w/ 64MB, DVD-Dual (DVD +/- R/RW), Internal 6-in-1 Card Reader, Internal 802.11b/g Wireless, Windows XP Home, Linux Fedora Core 2, 1 Year carry-in warranty.
post #959 of 1526
Realistically, you'll see less than 5% difference in performance between PC2700
and PC3200. (www.tomshardware.com).

Re: cheap memory: Memory issues can cause all manner of random unreproducable
problems. I've dealt with them before - they are no fun at all. How much is it
worth to you to reduce the likelihood of that?

I never use cheap memory.

- Eric
post #960 of 1526

Using onboard Intel GPU: reply

I suspect - based on a picture in the service manual - that you'd need to replace
your GPU card with a minimal card which just drives the LCD.

The picture I'm referring to shows what I suspect is a 1711 (no Nvida card) open.
It -does- have a card in the AGP slot, and the LCD cable connects to that. However
the card in the picture is minimal - only one chip on it, no memory apparent, no
heat sink. etc. I think you have to use that card - whatever it is.

There is no place to plug the LCD into the m/b - which means you -must- have some
kind of AGP card to drive the LCD.

On mine (as in the picture) the LCD cable connects directly to the video card.

- Eric
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