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So my pc died and now I'm gonna build 1

post #1 of 26
Thread Starter 
Well woke up one day to a corrupt hd, this is after I have replaced it already, replaced vid card, network card. All these bandaids have been over the last year when it got hit by lightning. So I decided to build a new one. Following are the parts I have ordered.

APEVIA X-Navigator ATXA8NW-AL/500 Silver/Black Aluminum ATX Full Tower w/ 500w supply

WesternDigital Raptor WD740ADFD 74GB 10,000 RPM Serial ATA150 HD

ASUS P5N32-E SLI LGA 775 NVIDIA nForce 680i SLI ATX Intel Mobo

Intel Core 2 Quad Q6600 Kentsfield 2.4GHz LGA 775 Processor Model BX80562Q6600

CORSAIR XMS2 4GB (4X1GB) 240 Pin DDR2 SDRAM DDR2 1066 (PC28500)Dual Channel Kit Desktop Memory

EVGA 512-P3-N802-A1 GeForce 8800GT Superclocked 512MB 256-bit GDDR3 PCI Express 2.0 HDCP Ready SLI Supported Video Card

LITE-ON Black 20X DVD+R 8X DVD+RW 8X DVD+R DL 20X DVD-R 6X DVD-RW 12X DVD-RAM 16X DVD-ROM 48X CD-R 32X CD-RW 48X CD-ROM 2MB Cache SATA DVD Burner with LightScribe


I am considering adding another 8800gt in a month or so and an external (maybe wireless) 500g hd for storage of family photos and music and such.
Thats pretty much it, I will probably use this thread to show pics of build although it is a low level build I still want to share, its my first complete build.
There is one thing that bothers me now that its all ordered, will a 500w carry all of this? If I add the second video card will I still be good?
post #2 of 26
I would be worried about the psu also, I use to have that same 500 watt psu... It's not of very good quality, it could barely handle what I had at the time. And that was an A64 3400+ and an 6800GT. I don't know how well it will like that nice quad core cpu.

Everything else looks great.
post #3 of 26
If you've already bought it, you should be fine with a 500W PSU. I'd go a bit higher if you haven't picked one out, but it seems many of us are buying more Watts than we really need in the PSU. Remember, you will seldom be reaching max load on the PC. That said, you can always give it a try, and replace it if you need to later.

I'm running quite a bit on a 620W PSU, and haven't had problem 1.

Looking forward to seeing your build pics.
post #4 of 26
Quote:
Originally Posted by shazza View Post
If you've already bought it, you should be fine with a 500W PSU. I'd go a bit higher if you haven't picked one out, but it seems many of us are buying more Watts than we really need in the PSU. Remember, you will seldom be reaching max load on the PC. That said, you can always give it a try, and replace it if you need to later.

I'm running quite a bit on a 620W PSU, and haven't had problem 1.

Looking forward to seeing your build pics.
I'd like to suggest the ThermalTake Tough Power 750 Watt PSU.
post #5 of 26
PSU is most important, spend a good 200-250 on a goood one, buy crap and you end up like me with a burned out mobo, burned out psu, and 3 week turn around time. I say get a Antec 850 watt Antec its sitting in my Antec 900 case and looks great.
post #6 of 26
I'd suggest getting 700w toughpower or something like that, you're going to want the ability to upgrade in the future as well as have a very stable system. Aiming low is NEVER the way to go when it comes to builds.
post #7 of 26
Thread Starter 
the case will be here today, the mobo, cpu, and hd is here already. all i'm waiting on really is the gpu, ram, and optical drive. when i add the other video card i'll bump up the power to a 750w. how can i know if this will all carry on my 500w? do i have to actually do the calculations?
post #8 of 26
I have an OCZ 520 watts psu in my opteron 165 and never had a problem. I don't know what the minimum requirement for an sli'd rig is, but as the other posters suggested, you'll definitely need a good quality psu with more than 500 watts to be on the safe side.

Here's my system specs:

MB:ABIT KN8-ULTRA
CPU:AMD OPTERON 165 (Oc to 2.4Ghz)
Memory: Geil 2 x 1024MB PC4000
Video Card:BFG 8800GT OC
CDROM #1: DVD +/- RW 4x
CDROM #2: Samsung 16x DVD+/-RW DL
HD:Western Digital 2 x 320GB SATA Raid 0 + LianLi Aluminum IDE Mobile Rack (for Extra HD)
Case / PS: coolermaster cavalier 3 w/ side windows+ OCZ POWER STREAM 520 watts PSU
24" Dell LCD
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
And here's is a good article regarding PSUs:

Power Supply Myths Exposed!
1. DOES A POWER SUPPLY UPGRADE MEAN A HIGHER ELECTRIC BILL?
This is the biggest myth of all. First, it's important to understand that a power supply only delivers the power that's needed by the system, nothing more. If your PC currently has a 400W supply and the system needs 350W, it will still need and use only 350W - if the only change is upgrading to a 500W power supply (the upgrade makes sense since there are many advantages to running a power supply at a lower percentage of its rated capacity). Whether the electric bill goes up or down is solely determined by the efficiency of the new power supply. Greater efficiency means a lower electric bill because more of the AC power is converted into DC for the computer, rather than wasted as heat. The savings can really add up over time. For example, when the money saved in electricity over the course of its 3-year warranty is taken into account, the purchase price of the efficient Silencer 750 is less than $0.00. Here's the math:

Model Efficiency @ 550W Input Power @ 550W
Silencer 750 83% 662W
Antec True Power 550 73.8% 745W

For the same output power, the Silencer 750 uses 83W less input power.

3-year savings = .083KW x $0.10/KWH x 24 x 365 x 3 = $218.12

2. DON'T BE MISLED BY EXAGGERATED WATTAGE CLAIMS
To properly compare power supplies, wattage claims must state the maximum ambient temperature for continuous, full-load operation. Unfortunately for the consumer, this information is usually withheld, opening the door for manufacturers to exaggerate their wattage claims. They do so by assuming an unrealistic ambient temp of only 25°C (77°F), even though the actual internal power supply temp is at least 40°C (104°F). Since the proper full-load rating is 15°C higher for home use and 25°C higher for industrial use, these power supplies produce 33%-50% less power than their advertised ratings. See the derating chart on the right.

Elevated Temperature Testing

Turbo-Cool 510 spec: full load @ 50°C.
"500W" Home PSU spec: full load @ 25°C, no load @ 70°C.

3. DON'T LOSE POWER WITH MODULAR PLUGS
Due to their look, convenience, and cost savings for manufacturers, modular plugs have become a popular power supply feature. Unfortunately, there has been little or no discussion of the impact of this feature on overall performance and reliability. The fact is, modular plugs limit power by adding to electrical resistance. The voltage drop can be as much as would occur in 2 feet of standard wire. Worse yet, modular plugs utilize delicate pins that can easily loosen, corrode, and burn, creating the potential for a major system failure. That's why professional system builders specify uninterrupted wire!

4. MARKETING MYTH vs. WARRANTY REALITY
As with all consumer products, the fine print in the warranty will often contradict a manufacturer's marketing hype. Unfortunately, this is especially true for computer power supplies. Take for example this quote direct from the product box of a leading manufacturer: "we've earned a stellar reputation for producing stable, reliable, industrial-grade PC power supplies". Now compare that statement to what is specifically excluded in the company's "legendary 3-year warranty":

Sample of What is NOT covered -

a. commercial and industrial use
b. wear and tear from moving parts
c. that the product will meet your requirements.

In conclusion, don't be mislead by marketing hype, avoid superficial gimmicks, and read the warranty carefully before purchasing your next power supply.

5. AN SLI CERTIFIED POWER SUPPLY WILL ALWAYS POWER HIGH-END GRAPHICS CARDS?
We went through three power supplies before we found one that consistently worked with these high-end graphics cards and an FX-60. We initially started with a Silverstone 600W SLI certified power supply, but running some games resulted in the system powering down under full load. We next moved onto a higher rated Thermaltake PurePower SLI certified 680W unit. But while most games ran most of the time, the system would still occasionally shut down. Finally, we ended up using PC Power and Cooling's massive TurboCool 850 SSI. This just goes to show that if you really want to build something that pushes the bleeding edge, make sure you have the right power supply.
ExtremeTech Review Feb 12, 2006

6. SHOULD AN ATX POWER SUPPLY BE COOLED WITH A 120MM FAN?
Most low-noise ATX power supplies today utilize a top-mounted 120mm fan rather than a rear-mounted 80mm fan. The 120’s favorable reputation is based on the fact that under low to medium load conditions, the 120mm fan provides sufficient cooling at low RPM and low RPM fans are generally very quiet.

However, problems occur with this design when the load exceeds 50%-60%. Because the 120mm fan consumes about 1.5” of vertical space inside the PSU, heat sinks, capacitors, and other components are about 30% smaller in height compared to a PSU with a rear-mounted fan. The smaller parts can handle less current, so the maximum power available with the 120mm design is limited. And, because the heat sinks have less surface area, more air flow is needed with this design to keep the thermal situation under control. With 80%-100% load, the 120’s fan speed can double and the noise level can jump by up to 20dB.

In conclusion, for systems that require more than 50% of the power supply’s capacity, a well-engineered PSU with a rear-mounted 80mm fan will provide superior performance and reliability (due to larger components) at a noise level comparable to a PSU equipped with a 120mm fan.

7. ARE TWO POWER SUPPLY FANS BETTER THAN ONE?
No. A power supply with two fans doesn’t exhaust any more air from the case than a power supply with one. That's because due to space limitations, only one fan can be used for exhaust, while the other is limited to spot cooling. Possible explanations for a 2-fan PSU include: thermal engineering problems; an attempt to exaggerate the wattage rating by spot cooling the transformer; or an attempt by the marketing department to create a new gimmick.

8. ARE MULTIPLE 12-VOLT RAILS BETTER THAN A SINGLE 12-VOLT RAIL?
With all the hype about multiple 12-volt rails (ads claim that two rails is better than one, five is better than four, etc.), you’d think it was a better design. Unfortunately, it’s not!

Here are the facts: A large, single 12-volt rail (without a 240VA limit) can transfer 100% of the 12-volt output from the PSU to the computer, while a multi-rail 12-volt design has distribution losses of up to 30% of the power supply’s rating. Those losses occur because power literally gets “trapped” on under-utilized rails. For example, if the 12-volt rail that powers the CPU is rated for 17 amps and the CPU only uses 7A, the remaining 10A is unusable, since it is isolated from the rest of the system.

Since the maximum current from any one 12-volt rail of a multiple-rail PSU is limited to 20 amps (240VA / 12 volts = 20 amps), PCs with high-performance components that draw over 20 amps from the same rail are subject to over-current shutdowns. With power requirements for multiple processors and graphics cards continuing to grow, the multiple-rail design, with its 240VA limit per rail, is basically obsolete.

PC Power and Cooling is once again leading the industry. All of our power supplies now feature a large, single 12-volt rail. The design is favored by major processor and graphics companies, complies with EPS12V specs (the 240VA limit is not a requirement) and is approved by all major safety agencies such as UL and TUV.

http://www.pcpower.com/technology/myths/
post #9 of 26
interesting walley.
post #10 of 26
Thread Starter 
well i'll add pics later, not much to look at but anyways i'm done and it runs great. i havent had much time to mess around with it but i did notice that my motherboard is detecting 4 gigs of ram but vista said i only had like 3300 something ram, anyone know whats up with that?
post #11 of 26
If you're running the 32bit version of vista, it won't detect 4gb of ram.
post #12 of 26
Quote:
Originally Posted by tinman44 View Post
well i'll add pics later, not much to look at but anyways i'm done and it runs great. i havent had much time to mess around with it but i did notice that my motherboard is detecting 4 gigs of ram but vista said i only had like 3300 something ram, anyone know whats up with that?
You must be running the 32bit version. Go to 64bit if you want all 4.

Dang, posted same time .
post #13 of 26
yea and not only does half the stuff not run correctly on vista 32, once you go 64, you can kiss about 90% of your prgrams away...Vista Sucks, and 64 bit makes it that much worse.

Just my opinion....I gotta put XP back on, just haven't had time.
post #14 of 26
Thread Starter 
well vista dosent see it, but is it still there and is it still used? oh and you think if/when they release service pack it will detect then?
post #15 of 26
It wont be used...
post #16 of 26
It's not just a vista thing. It's a 32bit OS limitation. So no, a service pack isn't goin to help, only the 64bit version will.
post #17 of 26
Thread Starter 
well f*&^ me i recon i'll just deal with it. i would need new cpu mobo and op sys. those are out of my price range right now, i'll consider it next year, hopefully i can reuse the ram

edit:i'm an idiot, i'm just going to wait and upgrade to vista 64 when it makes sense, but now that i know my cpu and mobo will support 64bit op sys should i dual sli my 8800gt next march or dual whatever is out with dx10, i've already picked out a new psu.
post #18 of 26
it is their, and no its not being used...Seriously at any given time do a CTL ALT DEL, I've never exceeded 2gb and thats with a game open at full max settings like bf2 or something.

Just keep what ya got, its fine.
post #19 of 26
Thread Starter 
can i raid a 75g and a 150g as long as their both 10k rpm?
post #20 of 26
yes, itll just down the second drive to 75gb
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