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Alienware M7700 won't turn on- Help!

post #1 of 19
11/14/07 at 5:19pm
Thread Starter 
Hi Everyone,
I hope I can find some answers to what is wrong with this computer and find out how to fix it.

We bought this Alienware Area-51 M7700 Feb. 2006. We've had various problems with in since we owned it, but a couple months ago it started having problems starting up. It was restarting, with a clicking noise, and then finally turn on. I don't know what was causing it. I knew our adaptor and battery were old (and this machine gets VERY hot) so I bought a new battery and adaptor. It seemed to help somewhat. But I noticed the laptop battery wasn't charging up, it was very slowly with the new battery and adaptor, but barely.

Now, the lights come on when you push the power button, but it's not starting up at all, or even making the noises like it's going to. the lights will just start up. Somehow it's not getting power enough to turn on, I think. The "Alienware" lights on the cover flicker constantly when we try to turn it on. What should we try to get this thing working?

Thanks!
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post #2 of 19
11/14/07 at 7:46pm
Sounds like a classic Clevo D900 (Alienware m7700) motherboard failure. I think the mobo it getting power just fine, but its dead as a doornail. It'll run you around $500 for a replacement board, and then you'd have to disassemble the entire thing and put it back together. Hate to say it, but I'd be looking for a new notebook.
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post #3 of 19
11/14/07 at 9:31pm
Thread Starter 
My husband is experienced enough to change it out, we really can't afford a new system at this point, and 500 dollars is alot cheaper than it would cost us to buy a new one.

On my battery it says D900T but elsewhere on the back it says D900K, how do I know which MB it is? does it make a difference?
Here are my specs.


AURORA
BLUE AMD A1 17" UXGA+ W/CAM
ATHLON 64 X2 4200+ 2x512KB CACHE 939-PIN DC
PDP SIGNATURE DDR 1GB PC3200 SODIMM
AREA-51M 7700 D900T NVIDIA ULTRA 6800FXGO WITH 256MB MODULE
HITACHI 100GB 7200RPM SATA
8X DVD+/-RW LITE-ON
MICROSOFT WINDOWS XP HOME COA
USB FLOPPY DRIVE


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post #4 of 19
11/14/07 at 9:56pm
assuming you have the pentium cpu version of this laptop, if you buy a new mobo (they are all refurbished) you should recieve the newest 6 series version. open the ram slot and there should be a little white sticker indicating what version motherboard you have.

if the laptop has a pentium cpu you have the D900T. if it has an amd cpu you have the D900K so make sure you purchase the right motherboard. i believe the battery will state D900T regardless so do not go by that.
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post #5 of 19
11/14/07 at 9:58pm
Thread Starter 
Thank you so much!
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post #6 of 19
11/14/07 at 11:54pm
Aurora + the DDR (not DDR2) RAM means its the AMD version, you need to get an AMD board. DO NOT order an Intel or Pentium board, as they are completely different. rjtech.com is the best place to order from (so I've heard). Good luck with the board change.
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post #7 of 19
11/15/07 at 12:35am
Quote:
Originally Posted by nickswife2004 View Post
My husband is experienced enough to change it out, we really can't afford a new system at this point, and 500 dollars is alot cheaper than it would cost us to buy a new one.

On my battery it says D900T but elsewhere on the back it says D900K, how do I know which MB it is? does it make a difference?
Here are my specs.


AURORA
BLUE AMD A1 17" UXGA+ W/CAM
ATHLON 64 X2 4200+ 2x512KB CACHE 939-PIN DC
PDP SIGNATURE DDR 1GB PC3200 SODIMM
AREA-51M 7700 D900T NVIDIA ULTRA 6800FXGO WITH 256MB MODULE
HITACHI 100GB 7200RPM SATA
8X DVD+/-RW LITE-ON
MICROSOFT WINDOWS XP HOME COA
USB FLOPPY DRIVE
The d900k is the AMD (aurora) version, the d900t is the intel version.

I assume you're out of warranty. In warranty, AW will repair and replace parts for free. You might call them and see if they'll help you make sure it's the motherboard and not a simple battery or adapter issue.

With the d900 series, there is a capacitor that's part of the charging system that is right near the processor. Processor heat can cause that capacitor to overheat, and that leads to charging problems and eventually a dead motherboard. If you replace the mobo, make sure when you use the laptop that it's got good air flow to the vents underneath so it can cool itself as well as possible. Also keep the radiators in the back as dust free as possible.
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post #8 of 19
12/17/07 at 6:18pm
I have also encountered with the exact same problem with my m7700 (grey). It has actually happened twice, the first time they sent me a replacement graphics card and that sorted the problem, but quickly afterwards I needed a complete motherboard replacement. Anyway,

If you want to try to give your laptop a new cmos battery, and re-seat (take out and put back) the graphics card, it might be as simple as that.

By the way the problem for me, was that when I plug in the power to turn it on, and hit the button, the lights come on, but nobody’s in! – the CD player is the thing that makes the click noise – as it is constantly restarting for thirty seconds it wants to move the laser into the start-up position… The screen did not even get to the backlit stage on the alienware bootup, but as soon as I dry-aired the graphics card out (with help from teck support) it was back up for a while to get my stuff off… Laptop back to life!


Hope this helps you, post how they managed to fix yours back on the website. Alienware are great to sort technical things out, but I cant manage to miss out on my laptop for one day!

Antony
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post #9 of 19
12/17/07 at 11:41pm
i had the same problem
this is a typical MOBO failure
you need to replace it with D900K version
i think you might find it on ebay or RJtech.com HERE
but make sure it's D900K not other version
also i put some pic guide of how to change the MOBO for 7700 HERE
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post #10 of 19
12/21/07 at 9:53am
if it's restarting with an electrical "click" that is the computer's failsafe to stop it from overheating

aim a fanheater (on cold setting) at the outlet of the back of your pc and another one at the graphics outlet...the ram one underneigth doesnt matter that much

do that and see if it turns on

chances are that its the thermistor on the heatsink is bust
like mine was >.<

if it then works with aditional cooling, upgrade the bios to the lates version to gain functionality of Fn+F2 to force fans on full like I have done
and it sould work fine
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post #11 of 19
12/21/07 at 5:00pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mardoxx View Post
if it's restarting with an electrical "click" that is the computer's failsafe to stop it from overheating

aim a fanheater (on cold setting) at the outlet of the back of your pc and another one at the graphics outlet...the ram one underneigth doesnt matter that much

do that and see if it turns on

chances are that its the thermistor on the heatsink is bust
like mine was >.<

if it then works with aditional cooling, upgrade the bios to the lates version to gain functionality of Fn+F2 to force fans on full like I have done
and it sould work fine
There have been a lot of posts here that indicate it's a capacitor in the charging system that's mounted right next to the cpu on the motherboard rather than the heatsink part.

Most people with these symptoms resolve the issues by replacing the mobo, not the heatsink.
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post #12 of 19
1/16/08 at 8:05pm
You do not need to replace the entire mobo just the damaged IC. With my system I have a burned voltage regulator (which is the "capacitor" you all are refering too) unfortunately I can't read the IC number so no way I can order a replacement which runs about $5-$10 if you do the soldering yourself. Much better than paying $300+ for a whole new mobo.
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post #13 of 19
2/1/08 at 1:05am
Hey Guys! I just joined to let you all know that I am having the same problem. It had the temperature probe problem, I just updated the bios when I got it to force than fan speed to high all the time. Has been a great machine. Last night while playing games on it, it just shut off and would turn back on. Then only thing it would do was make the clicking noise and cycle that over and over....... I just took everything out, (RAM GPU, CPU) and let it power cycle a few times. After putting it back together it worked fine. While it's cycling.....give the palm rest a good whack above the video card....it fires right up! With all the heat up and cool down periods, plastic can take only so much of that. And they say violence solves nothing, I think not!
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post #14 of 19
2/1/08 at 3:41pm
Sounds like you should reseat the video card, and check the thermal pads and make sure they haven't moved or dried up. It's most likely turning off because it is overheating (that's why you should check the thermal pads).
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post #15 of 19
2/1/08 at 4:16pm
moved to support
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post #16 of 19
2/13/08 at 1:10pm
Wow....

I have an M7700 and I've been struggling with the same problem. Bought the thing off ebay real cheap. I understand why now...

-Battery wont charge (not to concerned really..)

But the main thing is, Im having the same problem as stated above... it doesn't turn on when I power off.

Does anyone have anymore info on the temperature sensor issue? I have found that I can put the laptop in the garage (it's cold outside) for about 5 mins and it turns on perfectly!....

Power supply makes a buzzing when the booting problem occurs, Im going to replace that and I will update.


Thanks for the great info!
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post #17 of 19
2/19/08 at 12:00pm
I was changing the hardrive in my Alienware laptop M766 and dropped one of the screw inside the case. Does anyone have or know where I can get the service manual on this model or any alienware laptop in general. I have removed all the screws I could see and a few hidden ones, but I am STILL unable to get the case open... and yes I did look under the keyboard.

Thanks!!

Bob
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post #18 of 19
3/22/10 at 3:09pm
Hey folks,
I too have an M7700. I know that this thread is older (since 2008).
I have read through this forum and apparently these boards suffer from a capacitor problem.

Even though mine charges fine, it cannot turn on, so does anybody have a picture of where these capacitors are or how I can find them? because I really don't want to buy a new board when I can just solder the same type back on.
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post #19 of 19
8/12/10 at 6:55am
Quote:
Originally Posted by RET80 View Post
Hey folks,
I too have an M7700. I know that this thread is older (since 2008).
I have read through this forum and apparently these boards suffer from a capacitor problem.

Even though mine charges fine, it cannot turn on, so does anybody have a picture of where these capacitors are or how I can find them? because I really don't want to buy a new board when I can just solder the same type back on.
The capacitors are located near where the power cable connects. You will need to remove most of the casing to get at it though. I believe there are two of them. If they are burnt out you will be able to identify them quickly visually and they could also smell burnt too.
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