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Please help! I think I fried something!

post #1 of 52
Thread Starter 
I have a 5600p (I think this is the Clevo model #. Windows XP pro. I turn it on today, am on the internet a few minutes, then the screen freezes. Do respose from any keys, so I hold the on/off until it shuts down. When I try to turn on again, nothing appears and the fans start blowing out very hot air. Hours later, after plenty of cooling time, same thing!

Well, I don't know where to start now. The remote access card doesn't light up so it's either dead or more likely not getting power to its slot.

We did have thunderstorms earlier, but I am powered through a surge protecter (if it works).

Any ideas at all?

Thanks
post #2 of 52
I would check to make sure the fans are actually spinning (all of them) and that the intake is not blocked with something. Also if you havent already then you should clean your heatsink.
post #3 of 52
tmh, try operating on battery.
1) do any of the indicator lights come on?
2) do the fans spin up?
3) are there any sounds?
4) are there any smells (like burnt wiring, its a very unique smell)?

Then repeat on AC power with the battery removed.
post #4 of 52
Thread Starter 
Thanks for the quick responses...

OK, here are some of the answers.
The fans seem to be fine - I keep them clean and they were working great and still are blowing fine. The lights come on as normal with or without Adapter power. Also, I CAN use the CD player (when off) function fine.

No sound except for fans. As for smells, well, when it first happened, there was HOT air blowing out (seemed hotter than I've felt before, but not sure of this) and I did seem to be able to smell that electrical burn smell.

As for powering up with the battery OUT, I just can't seem to get the bugger out! The latch doesn't "pop" it out, and there is nothing to "pry" out when I hold the latch. I've never had reason to remove the battery, so i have no idea if this "stuck battery" is a new condition or not.

Any more ideas? Thanks again.
post #5 of 52
Thread Starter 
Oh, also I get no response from any keys, as best I can tell with no screen to see. The "cap locks" doesn't light the indicator light, Ctrl/Alt/Del 2 x doesn't turn it off (only the on button held down turns it off). It seems the only indicator lights that go on are the ones on the bottom of the lid under the screen.
post #6 of 52
Sound like a CPU meltdown
post #7 of 52
Thread Starter 
thanks, gerry. Would you think it is more likely the processor than the motherboard? I can try to replace the processor easily (not cheaply,but not too bad). If it is fairly likely th MB, I'll nead to ship it in and get it fixed at a huge expense for a machine that's worth about $800 on ebay.

What's the vote out there - try a new (upgraded) processor? Do I risk wrecking that one if it's a MB issue?

Thanks as always to all who help fools like me.
post #8 of 52
Bad part about "fried MBs" is that if you stick in a new CPU you could "fry it" too. See if you can get the "cheapest possible" CPU to test the thing. Then if it checks out A-OK for all functions, consider upgrading to a new chip. Or maybe take it to your local "friendly??$$" laptop repairman and get his/her opinion.
post #9 of 52
I Am wondering about the "I was on the internet just for a minute". Is it possible that you got a virus. Can you get a virus that will shut you down like that?
post #10 of 52
here's an option, send it to pctorque for an upgrade. I cant remember the price, but they replace the motherboard, heatsink and some other stuff (not sure if processor is included.

Just an option
post #11 of 52
I'd say its most likely that you have burnt out something on your mainboard. Most likely something other than the CPU. The best way to check this out is to install the CPU you have in another mainboard. That may not be the easiest thing to do but its about the only way to check it out. If the CPU checks out, then you need to look at the mainboard and the components on it. Probably something in the power controllers. Most likely where it gets stepped down to 3.3 or whatever voltage the mainboard components use. Obviously the problem would be downstream from where the power branches off to the fans and the Audio DJ.
post #12 of 52
Thread Starter 
Thanks for the advise all. One more question - Can I use a processor from an old Dell laptop (pentium 1, I think) in my 5600p or do I need to use a pentium 4?

This is just to test whether the processor IS dead and the cause of my problems - I'd still replace it with a P4 2.6 ghz if it proves true.
post #13 of 52
DOn't think the P1 will work. Different pin counts/configuration.
post #14 of 52
How about putting the proc in a desktop to test it out?
post #15 of 52
Yes, since the processor is a desktop CPU anyway, it will be pin compatible with any pentium capable motherboard.

That said--I tend to think it is likely the CPU that fried, not the motherboard.

My experience with toasted motherboards is that the fans do not spin up (unless it is totally fried, as in hit by lightning and melted down to sand fried. A toasted CPU, however, will allow fans to spin up unless it has been roasted into glass.

Furthermore, a toasted CPU will still generate heat, since it is still conducting electricity.

Just a guess, though--you never can tell for sure unless you have a known-good part you can swap in.
post #16 of 52
Thread Starter 
Thanks for all the help! The partisipants in this forum provide a great service. Whenever I call the manufacturer, all they ever want to do is charge a "diagnostic fee" then charge to fix it. They never really try to give advise on how I can try to fix it. Interestingly, it seems they almost always go for the most expensive fix once they have your laptop - I often wonder if this is really what's needed so often.

I have ordered the new pentium processor and will try it as soon as it arrives. I don't have a desktop I can afford to fiddle with (runs my whole business) so I can't try these other good suggestions. I figure that the money spent on the 2.6 ghz P4 (mac for the 5600p) is worth it as an upgrade to my 1.6 ghz anyways, so I'll be happy as can be if it solves the problem! Heck, while I'm in there I'll give the Artic Silver a try also.

With any luck I'll have a cool-running lean mean machine in a few days! (of course, without luck I'll be $170 poorer and have 2 fried cpu's and a roasted motherboard, but I'm thinking positive!). I'll update on the results when I put in the new P4.

Thanks again.
post #17 of 52
Thread Starter 
Hey, one last question before my CPU arrives today (I hope). Can I install it with no thermal goop to test it? I've cleaned my heat sink and will plan to get some arctic silver 5 for permanent install once I know it works, but I'd rather use it for a few days first to make sure I don't have to undo the whole thing.
post #18 of 52
I really wouldnt - you could end up with another roasted CPU pretty fast that way. Just head down to the local compUSA and buy at least the el-cheepo silver thermal paste.
post #19 of 52
Nor would I. Much would depend on how closely the heatsink and CPU contact, but neither is likely to be smooth enough to ensure good heat transfer.

I toasted a CPU in 6 seconds once (no heatsink at all) by accident, so your room for error is not that great.
post #20 of 52
Thread Starter 
Well, bad news for me. I replaced the CPU, applied a beautiful layer of Arctic Silver, and ...... same problem. The "on" light on the LCD goes on (stays on), the drive indicator light flashes, then.... nothing! I'm about to throw in the towel.

I did read somewhere that someone was successful from about my symptoms in disconnecting and reconnecting/replacing the CMOS battery. I don't know what or where that is on this computer, nor do I have any idea if the symptoms really indicate messing with it MIGHT help. Anyone know about this?

If not, off to the local computer shop!
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