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HP Pavilion DV5z-1000 Power Issues - Page 2

post #21 of 28
4/13/12 at 3:43pm
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by OShadowFoxO View Post

Hey,
When you mention the thermal pad on the heatsink, which are you referring to? I'm guessing the blue "pad" thing that sits on the north bridge chip?
If so, a little dust on it doesn't seem like it should be a huge issue. There shouldn't be any in the center part that actually mates to the chip since it's been in contact with the chip all along. If there IS some notable dust in the center, that MIGHT be a concern, but I'm not sure how much. The thermal pad in my DV9700 actually has two small gouges in it and has been pried and replaced dozens of times and still works fine. If the dust is along the edges, it should be fine.
Dust is really only a problem when it's directly between a chip and the surface it's supposed to be touching.
Regards,
O Shadow Fox O
Edit: Just looking back at your pictures, it seems like you have an integrated GPU (there is an empty square to the left of your north bridge in the pictures). Dust in the center of the blue pad would be MORE of a concern that way, but again unless it's a decent amount (or it's just on the edges of the pad) you may not have much to worry about.


Yes, I was referring to the blue pad. 

 

There actually is dust in the center. I've reassembled and disassembled it many times due to it over-heating and now I'm thinking of buying IC7 Diamond and the used heatsink and fan I mentioned earlier. I can't seem to get it right especially since it's a pain to keep taking it apart. Now I think there might even be a scratch towards the top of the heatsink due to improper cleaning I believe. 

 

I took it apart again and did some more researching on how much compound should really be added, and I saw that it should only be a thin layer which I added little drops a couple times to make sure it was covered nicely, but I believe I did it wrong. I added a layer onto the heatsink and on the GPU as well. I've seen people not add compound to the GPU at all, only the heatsink and tend to get away with it. I'm wondering if I should do that since I have trouble adding the compound correctly right now.

 

I reapplied the paste multiple times, which I'm not sure if im doing it right or wrong or im just using the wrong paste, and it's still over-heating. I'm pretty much looking to buy a new PC since I've had this one for about 4-5 years I think? But yeah.. it's getting really annoying that it keeps over-heating and it's a pain to keep taking it apart!!

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post #22 of 28
4/13/12 at 8:46pm
Hi again,

I'm going to throw a slightly edited picture of yours in here because in reading your post I think there's some confusion and I want to clear it up. My apologies if the confusion is entirely mine. Here's the picture.

209

I added some callouts to illustrate what I want to clarify.

The ONLY thing you want to add thermal compound to is the CPU and the heatsink where it mates with the CPU. In the setup as you have it, you DO NOT want to add thermal compound to the Northbridge/GPU chip. That's what the blue pad is for.That is its own thermal paste, so to speak.The pad also allows the heatsink assembly to REACH the NB/GPU chip and cushion it.

Another edit, since it might do some good:

209

Those are the only spots of the heatsink that matter for the actual thermal transfer. The big grey area is mainly filler and a means to support mounting. If there's a scratch anywhere on the copper where it touches the CPU core, that could be an issue. if the scratch is anywhere other than there, it really shouldn't be a concern.

As far as amounts: Like I said in a previous post a tiny bit is okay as long as it is enough to cover the CPU core (the flat rectangle in the middle of the chip). In thickness the layer only needs to be about as thick as a sheet of paper or a hair. You don't need a LAYER on the heatsink side at all in this case, you might brush a thin residue over the exposed copper area but you wouldn't really want a layer there.

Those are the guidelines I followed for every disassembly of my DV9700 and C500 and they both handle beautifully thermally (even if the C500 is a bit warm, it's still acceptably so).

Hope that helps some!

Regards,
O Shadow Fox O

Edit: Just wanted to add: As long as you're careful with your disassembly and reassembly, you can do it as often as you like. I've had my DV9700 and C500 apart about a dozen times each (as QHN will attest for the C500). As far as age, even at 4-5 years they both still work for what I use them for. If you don't NEED a new machine, why spend the money eh?
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post #23 of 28
4/13/12 at 9:31pm
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by OShadowFoxO View Post

Hi again,
I'm going to throw a slightly edited picture of yours in here because in reading your post I think there's some confusion and I want to clear it up. My apologies if the confusion is entirely mine. Here's the picture.
209
I added some callouts to illustrate what I want to clarify.
The ONLY thing you want to add thermal compound to is the CPU and the heatsink where it mates with the CPU. In the setup as you have it, you DO NOT want to add thermal compound to the Northbridge/GPU chip. That's what the blue pad is for.That is its own thermal paste, so to speak.The pad also allows the heatsink assembly to REACH the NB/GPU chip and cushion it.
Another edit, since it might do some good:
209
Those are the only spots of the heatsink that matter for the actual thermal transfer. The big grey area is mainly filler and a means to support mounting. If there's a scratch anywhere on the copper where it touches the CPU core, that could be an issue. if the scratch is anywhere other than there, it really shouldn't be a concern.
As far as amounts: Like I said in a previous post a tiny bit is okay as long as it is enough to cover the CPU core (the flat rectangle in the middle of the chip). In thickness the layer only needs to be about as thick as a sheet of paper or a hair. You don't need a LAYER on the heatsink side at all in this case, you might brush a thin residue over the exposed copper area but you wouldn't really want a layer there.
Those are the guidelines I followed for every disassembly of my DV9700 and C500 and they both handle beautifully thermally (even if the C500 is a bit warm, it's still acceptably so).
Hope that helps some!
Regards,
O Shadow Fox O
Edit: Just wanted to add: As long as you're careful with your disassembly and reassembly, you can do it as often as you like. I've had my DV9700 and C500 apart about a dozen times each (as QHN will attest for the C500). As far as age, even at 4-5 years they both still work for what I use them for. If you don't NEED a new machine, why spend the money eh?

Thanks for clarifying, but I was aware on what areas to repaste. I might of said GPU instead of CPU, my apologies. I was pretty confused on how to exactly apply the compound. Maybe I just wasn't using the right one. It did say that it is used for CPU's and it should be able to at least stop it from over-heating since I have a stock system, I'm not sure.

 

Anyway, the scratch on the heatsink may be where the core will rest. I will be finishing this fix this week since I'm expecting another fan with the heatsink and IC7 Diamond coming in soon. 

 

I will keep you updated. Thanks again!

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post #24 of 28
4/13/12 at 9:54pm
Hi again,

So the confusion was mine. This is often the case!

Just some other notes on the application: When putting a bit of compound on the CPU, I usually push out just a tiny bit onto the center of the core. For an exact amount, it's hard to describe really. It also depends on the size of the core, obviously. I want to say that the rubberized tip of the end of a woman's hair pin (bobby-pin, if you're familiar with the name) is ABOUT the right size (the rounded tip part, not the whole rubberized nub) on average. ABOUT that much in the center of the core, then spread it around with something clean and decently straight. I tend to use a credit card edge, myself.

Really it comes down to trial and error. I didn't get it right the first few times either. I've never fried a chip, but my poor T7250 suffered for its first two installation attempts, let me tell you. That Athlon looks to be a pretty decent sized core, so you may need slightly more than what I described above. My main experience is with Yonah-, Merom-, and Penryn-core Intel chips.

Spread as thin and even as you can over the core while still COVERING the core (hold it up to a light source and tilt it around to see if you can see any of the silicon "shine" through the compound). It should be okay if there's some thinner spots as when you lock the heatsink down it will press the compound and fill in gaps.

I checked out the IC7 and it does definitely look to be for CPUs, so you're on the right track there. Right now it sounds like it's just down to getting the amount and application right. Don't give up on it. As long as the system breathes when you power it up, there's always a chance to make it right.

I'll look forward to hearing your updates!

Regards,
O Shadow Fox O
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post #25 of 28
4/18/12 at 8:51pm
Thread Starter 

Finally, it's not over-heating since I applied the new compound with the fan and heatsink. Hopefully it stays that way!

 

Now, I've encountered another problem after I reassembled everything back together. The keyboard and mouse are not functioning properly. After putting everything back together, I saw that the mouse was not working. So I disassembled it down to the mouse wiring again and there is a blue plastic tag that is pasted onto the other flat plastic wire for the mouse, that part ripped off. Since it's something pasted to just clip into the port, I didn't think it was a big deal. So I went ahead and plugged the mouse wiring back in. There is a light by the touch pad and if it is orange, it's not connected. It was a clear color which means it is connected. 

 

So after I powered up the computer again, the mouse was not working at all. Then, the keyboard stopped functioning as well.

 

I connected a USB mouse and keyboard that I had and tried to figure out if any drivers weren't installed properly but everything was updated and working properly. The keyboard works when I shut down the computer or put it into sleep and power it up again. But, it only works for like 5 seconds so I knew this could not be a wiring problem. The keyboard functions properly when I'm in the BIOS menu at startup, but once I get into windows, it does not work.

 

I updated the BIOS again but it was still no fix. Any reason why I am getting this problem now?

 

Thanks again!

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post #26 of 28
4/19/12 at 12:18am
That blue plastic serves 2 folds - one is to help pushing the ribbon end into the slot evenly, the other is putting the pressure on the contact once the ribbon sits in the slot. Check the ribbon end of the keyboard also, it might slip out from one corner

cheers ...
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post #27 of 28
4/19/12 at 1:03am
Thread Starter 

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by qhn View Post

That blue plastic serves 2 folds - one is to help pushing the ribbon end into the slot evenly, the other is putting the pressure on the contact once the ribbon sits in the slot. Check the ribbon end of the keyboard also, it might slip out from one corner
cheers ...

 

The blue plastic or ribbon end on the keyboard is not ripped or broken at all and it goes in the slot normally, so I'm pretty sure nothing is wrong with it. It works after a shut down or recover from sleep mode but stops functioning after a couple seconds or so. It works perfect in the BIOS menu.


Edited by StevenJDM - 4/22/12 at 5:39pm
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post #28 of 28
4/25/12 at 6:44pm
Hi,

Is it possible that something is pressing or has permanently pressed the button that disables the mouse? Normally those functions are separate, but I have had my DV9700 keyboard stop responding as well if that button got pressed too many times in rapid succession.

...What? I like to press buttons.

Also, just make sure that the ribbon cable is correctly lined up and fully pressed into the connector. I had a few times during reassembly (again, my DV9700) where I THOUGHT the cable was in all the way but it wasn't. It LOOKED and even felt as if it was completely in the connector, but closer inspection showed it wasn't quite there.

The blue tab, as QHN noted, serves those two purposes. If you need to substitute something for the mouse cable, try a small piece of paper folded over (or card stock, perhaps). Just enough to give it some support.

Hope that helps. I'm glad you're thermally set, at least.

Regards,
O Shadow Fox O
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