Is there anybody who got a service manual or disassembly and assembly guide for acer 4535G? im having a problem of black screen on start up. Lights on the power is ok and hard disk light is reading..i even hear the sound when system opens but nothing on the screen.I noticed that it overheats quick.Any help and advice on how to fix will be appreciated.Tried external monitor. Last time put a fan under and an electric fan focus at the back made it booth up good.Might it be a dead fan or something.Hope somebody can help me..thanks in advance
disassembly and assembly guide for acer 4535G
Service Manual? Sure, no prob!
I don't have a link to give you for the Aspire 4535G, but here is one for the Aspire 4530 series,
On this page drop down to the subheading - Aspire 1200. (1200 in blue)
Now go down to the 4th line. Starts with 3810T in blue. Scroll across, and click right on - 4530
Disregard the following if you are aware;
This is a PDF file. The computer you are using now has Adobe Reader on it, which uses PDF files.
After you click on the file name, (4530), it may take up to 30 seconds, before the first page comes up.
Not quite the same? I understand. However after you have disassembled countless laptops, you will see they all follow the same basic pattern of disassembly.
This Service Manual is close enough that IMHO, you should have no problems.
1) Remove ALL power. Remove the AC adapter (Charger), and Battery.
2) Use an ESD wrist strap, and have it's alligator clip attached to a good ground source.
If not prepare to use the laptop as an expensive paperweight, or doorstop.
Average cost of an ESD wrist strap is around $3 to $6.
3) Use a multi-compartment container for the various screws you will remove.
Label each compartment for the area the screw/s come out of.
SOME screws look VERY similar to other screws.
Advise DO NOT mix them up.
4) Make a record as you disassemble. Make notes, and drawings. Use a digital camera if available, or video camera.
(Cell phone? Ummm, OK. IF, the photo quality is good enough, AND you use good lighting)
It's nice to have a personal record to refer back to in case you are interrupted.
5) The plastic strip above the above the Keyboard, and below the LCD screen, is the Switch Cover.
The Switch Cover has tabs on the outside edges. The Palm Rest Cover it fits in, has corresponding latches.
(Excuse me. Palm Rest Cover is Upper Cover for Acer)
Battery removed look down in the Battery Compartment. There are Philips head screws to remove. May be marked next to them - SW CVR, or something similar.
Start on the left side of the Switch Cover to remove it. It pops loose. I use a thick guitar pick to ease into the parting line, between the Switch Cover, and Upper Cover. [ Sometimes I use a plastic spud tool ] Ease that edge of the Switch Cover up, and go along with your fingers along the bottom edge.
(Pop, pop, pop, the cover unsnaps loose)
DO NOT know if your model has the LED lights, Power Button, etc, installed in the cover, or the cover is just that. A cover.
Reasoning? If the LED lights, etc. are in the cover, you need to ease the cover up so you aren't damaging wires. Then unplug them, and lift the cover off.
The Keyboard cable is connected to the Keyboard, and does not remove. The cable unplugs from the motherboard.
The Keyboard cable is a FFC. Flat Flex Cable.
It DOES NOT have a connector on the end.
The connector on the motherboard is a type of ZIF connector. Zero Insertion Force.
It is TWO pieces, but DOES NOT come completely apart.
It is rectangular shaped. There is a small piece on top, and a large piece on bottom.
The top part is a Locking Bar. The bottom piece is the Body.
The Locking Bar either lifts up to a 90 degree position (Straight up) to unlock,
the Locking Bar is slid forward towards the LCD screen. Distance? About 1/16th to 1/8th of an Inch.
This unlocks the FFC of the Keyboard, and it can then be removed.
Locking Bar came off of the Body? It's broke. You are looking at motherboard replacement.
THAT is why I am being so detailed.
7) After the screws from the bottom are removed, the Upper Cover is popped loose just like the Switch Cover. Except you have to go around two sides, or three, to get it to come loose.
8) Do Not halfstep. The LCD Module (Display Assembly) has to be removed. So does all the other components listed in the manual, for Mainboard removal.
(Mainboard is Motherboard)
If the 4535G is the same as the 4530 series, the Thermal/Fan Module is on the bottom of the motherboard. The laptop is disassembled from the top down. When done you will be looking at an empty Bottom Cover.
9) When removing the motherboard is lifted up at an angle. About 30 degrees, and from the right side. Same for reinstalling.
10) The Wireless Module has antenna leads from it. The antenna wires (Leads) come from the module, which is mounted at the bottom of the laptop, and go through channels, and latches to the top of the laptop, then on to inside the LCD Module.
In otherwords the antenna wires stay with the LCD Module.
Make notes, and a drawing as to where they thread through the various channels, and latches. They MUST go back in the same pattern they were installed in originally. If not the laptop will not go back together correctly, and you stand a chance of damaging the wires.
ALSO, note where the wires connect to on the Wireless Module. They have a specific terminal for EACH one. Mix it up, and you won't have wireless capability.
11) Clean the entire laptop out with compressed air, Q-tips, and a soft small brush. (Makeup brush?)
Pay special attention to the fins of the Heatsink. (Attached to one end of the copper Cooling Tube, and Fan Assembly)
12) Overheating? THIS is the time to thoroughly clean the top of the Processor, and graphics chipset. (GPU. Graphics Processing Unit)
Also the bottom of the two small metal plates, attached to the Cooling Tube.
(They sit on the Processor, and graphics chipset. The Processor is the one sitting in the socket. Processor socket )
By now the Thermal Paste has dried up, and lost it's thermal conductivity.
If a Thermal Pad is used, peel it off, fly it at the cat. Can't be reused anyway, and they are J-U-N-K!
[ Some people use Thermal Gel. (NO, not Thermal Glue!)
Me? I'm a computer geek, and keep an eye on the Thermal Paste. Nothing for me to replace it ]
Use an old credit card to scrape the Thermal Paste off, or residue of the Thermal Pad.
Then use Q-tips dipped in Isopropyl alcohol, and clean thoroughly.
Make take a lot of Q-tips dipped in alcohol. Sometimes it's a gooey mess.
Isopropyl alcohol is EXTREMELY FLAMMABLE! Use in a WELL ventilated area with NO sparks or flames present!
(Not advertising for Ebay, but I just saw the Fan Assembly for a little over 15 bucks. Ebay USA)