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Aspire 5535 LCD problem

post #1 of 17
Thread Starter 

Hi all,

 

I have been at this problem for a couple of weeks on and off. I have searched this forum for problems relating to this issue with this laptop model and I have not found anything. I have also searched for the same issue on other laptop models in case I can glean some knowledge that will help me fix this problem. Googling has not thrown any helpful results either.

On a positive note I can see by the helpful responses that there are a lot of very knowledgeable members here, so hopefully I can get this issue fixed.

 

Acer Aspire 5535-723G25Mn (MS2254)

 

The LCD on this laptop was not coming on when the lid was opened. This was initially an intermittent problem that could be rectified by opening and closing the lid several times.

The laptop works fine with an external monitor.

 

I would expect his sort of a problem would normally be due to a defective lid sensor but I have not been able to locate such a sensor on this model of laptop. There does not appear to be a mechanical switch nor any kind of magnetic switch.

 

The screen has since taken a bit of bashing (not me – honest! It's not my laptop) and as such needed to be replaced due to a few large cracks. So, I have fitted a replacement LCD This was a converted LED from ebay (item number: 120693215178) instead of the CCFL backlight that originally came with the laptop. I have also replaced the FPC cable in case it was worn by the hinge.

 

I have just contacted the ebay seller in case the replacement LCD is defective.

 

Assuming it is not the LCD hat else could be the problem here?

 

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

Regards

 

 

Blain

post #2 of 17
. You followed the instruction from the seller page regarding the dip switch?
. Amazon still sells the OEM replacement LCD for this model, might want to take a look at it.

The lid switch for this model is on the power board itself ... U1 SW1 from this pic ...



cheers ...
post #3 of 17
Thread Starter 

Thank you very much for your assistance.

 

smile.gif

 

i can't see anything in the seller's descroption regarding a dip switch...

 

but anyway that diagram above is great help.

 

I will look at this as soon as i get some spare time.

 

Thanks.
 

post #4 of 17
Cool. That power board assembly does not cost much. Might worth a replacement, or maybe just some cleaning up around the switches, dirt can make them stuck you know tongue.gif

cheers ...
post #5 of 17
Thread Starter 

700

 

Well, I had time to take a look at it this morning. The photo above is of the LED board. I scoured it and the mainboard for a switch labeled U1. i couldn't find anything. there are 2 boards on this laptop this, and the mainboard

 

On the LED board there are the following buttons: Wireless, Vol + and -, and bluetooth (although there is no bluetooth module fitted).

 

On the mainboard we have Acer 'e' button, power and the left and right track pad buttons.

 

I'm stumped...

post #6 of 17
Acer Aspire 5535-723G25Mn

This is the exact marking of your notebook on the bottom?

cheers ...
post #7 of 17
Thread Starter 

It is, yes.

 

Thanks.

post #8 of 17
Search for your model shows supports for 2 different power boards, the pic in your post and the schematic in mine headscratch.gifbored.gif

I need to dig up a service manual first

cheers ...
post #9 of 17
Thread Starter 

Once again, thanks for your help.

 

The service manual I've been using for reference shows some differences to this laptop too.

 

it's mostly the same but a few things are different here and there. i put the difference down to being different revisions of the model.

 

Just for reference in the manual the mainboard has an enclosed cutout for the heatsink and fan but on this laptop it is open on the end, so the cutout is more of an extended semi circular shape.

 

HTH
 

post #10 of 17
They make it hard for us tinkerers laugh4.gif

cheers ...
post #11 of 17
Thread Starter 

Here is the service manual I've been using...

 

http://tim.id.au/laptops/acer/aspire%205535%205235.pdf

 

This is the only one I've been able to find during all my searches but there are some differences.

 

e.g. the layout of the speakers is different in this manual. there is no mention of any lid sensor or switch for the LCD and some of the screw placement are different.

 

Thanks.

post #12 of 17
The LED board in that guide sure does not even come close to what your pic and mine show mellow.gif

I am stumped

cheers ...
post #13 of 17
Thread Starter 

This is from a 5315.

 

400

 

This laptop was detecting the lid closed when it had no LCD present - a problem for the owner because he had it fitted in his car...

 

originally from here

 

My partner's 5535 doesn't seem to detect that the lid has been opened. I have tired taping around the hinges in the same manner but I didn't have any electrical tape so i used duck tape instead. It mad no difference at all sad.gif

 

The OP then goes on to state:

 

 

Quote:
after experimenting with the dismantled laptop, I found that a lid sensing is only triggered when the lid's hinges (they're metallic, so they conduct electricity) are in contact with their base on the laptop. The hinges connect to a thin foil glued on the inside backplane of the lid... this foil gets detected, but ONLY when it's connected to chassis ground. So I insulated the foil from the hinges and presto: the lid can't be detected any more.

 

Any ideas if he is right and whether I could retape it with electrical tape. Would it make any difference?

 

What other systems do thet laptop manufacturers use to detect the lid?

 

Once again any help is appreciated.

 

Thanks.

post #14 of 17
That is some sort of magnetic sensor, using the lid hinges and a thin foil underneath the cover, grounding it. What do you mean by re-taping? The hinges? Can you see from your machine what the user meant?

cheers ...
post #15 of 17
Thread Starter 

I taped it in the same manner as the pic but I didn't have any electrical tape so i used clear duck tape. I don't know whether the duck tape provides enough insulation so i wondered whether applying electrical tape would make any difference at all. I initially put the tape on the foil so that the foil does not come into contact with the hinges at all.

 

I can't see anything on the 5535 that is magnetic other than the speakers. I've run a paper clip all around the upper plastics and found nothing. there are no wires in contact with the hinges that could provide an electromagnetic current. The only wires passing the through the hinges are the usual LCD cables and wireless antennas.

 

If the hinges were magnetic (which I don't think they are) what would they come into proximity to in order to trigger the LCD to turn off? The upper plastics of the bottom case are just that - plastic. There's nothing in there that I can see that could send a signal to the LCD.

 

in a nutshell I've stripped the laptop down several times and there doesn't seem to be anything in there that could act as a sensor or switch for the LCD headscratch.gif

 

Thanks

post #16 of 17
This site has some really good schematics for ACER, might want to browse through a few models and see. I am just as baffled as you are, sorry I don't have that same model in hand to play around with

http://www.newircusers.com/aspire-5732z-5332/top-view.html

cheers ...
post #17 of 17
Thread Starter 

Thanks for the link smile.gif

 

I'll take a look now

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