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600m Overheating!!! - Page 3

post #41 of 64
6/10/05 at 1:25am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mercer
I have found the perfect solution check it out:

http://www.neoseeker.com/Articles/Ha...ler/index.html


Only problem is. you can't find it in the U.S. try doing it search for it. It is really called JustCooler NB-100 PCMCIA cooling card, a foreign producer Justcooler sells under 3dcooler's name. Look at this list of places you can buy (only foreign)

http://www.xlr8yourmac.com/archives/may04/052504.html
Hi!

It's looks to be a cool device. Do you know the noise level of its fan?
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post #42 of 64
6/10/05 at 1:44am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mercer
Ya i'll download i8k and report what I get during my gaming.

Anyways mich43L, if you are looking a for portable cooling system you should look at Nexus TDD-3000 Laptop Cooler, its passive cooling using some the pipe system that highend heatsinks use.

http://www.nexustek.nl/tdd3000.htm

I found the best price at xpcgear

http://www.xpcgear.com/notebookcooler.html


One more thing i tried removing the some of the plates on the bottom of my notebook, and the screw are bending my screw driver! Its like they used threadlock on it or something. Any of you guys had a problem removing any of the screws on your 600m?
I read the data sheet. Sounds cool and the price is OK.
However, I wonder, if this technology works, why it is not used in standard laptop cooling systems?
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post #43 of 64
6/10/05 at 1:47am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Geeky1
The Nexus laptop cooler is a crock. It's complete BS. The thermal interface between the major heat producing components within the laptop is so weak that its cooling effect on the components within the laptop will be precisely nothing.
This is what I thought.
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post #44 of 64
6/10/05 at 8:09pm
Talking to your self Ivar?

Well plastic isn't the best conductor, remember that your computer is constantly generating heat and it has to go somewhere. Besides metal to plastic is going to take the heat better than plastic to air (since that is what a fan would be doing blowing on the base.

The real solution would be to a fan blow air into the laptop (like through the PCI card slot)

As for it working, my game never locks up like it used to sinced I've used it. :P
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post #45 of 64
6/10/05 at 8:13pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mercer
The real solution would be to a fan blow air into the laptop (like through the PCI card slot)
No one wants to take out the PCMCIA assembly and try installing a second fan there? That should at least keep the HD cooler.
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post #46 of 64
6/10/05 at 9:27pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by mich43L
No one wants to take out the PCMCIA assembly and try installing a second fan there? That should at least keep the HD cooler.
I agree.. That device looks interesting...
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post #47 of 64
6/12/05 at 10:59pm
The 600m is really compact. I wish i saw your post before I finished putting articsilver on my CPU, i would have taken a picture. but I think articsilver and the cleaning I did is about all i need to worry about when it comes to my heating for now
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post #48 of 64
6/13/05 at 12:02am
What kind of temps are you getting now?
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post #49 of 64
6/13/05 at 1:32pm
36 now
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post #50 of 64
6/14/05 at 2:02am
Thats nice...
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post #51 of 64
7/7/05 at 3:19am
Mercer,

so, you say this nexustek devise really does what they claim it to do? It would be good to know. It looks cool and hi-tech, and it is one of those rare occasions one can get something really new in Europe.
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post #52 of 64
7/7/05 at 1:30pm
Ya I thought I would add to this thread.

It seems there is something else going on heat related. While the heatsink has lowered my cpu and ram temps, when I don't have the thing on the heatsink, once in a while (when I'm on something that will cause heat to build up) I get the same effect, the game will start to go really slow. I check my heat history, and to my surprize they are the same, however when I touch the bottom of my laptop, it is hot enough to cook an egg!

I guess the rest of the system is being effected by the heat, not the cpu, ram or hard drive. Atleast there is no doubt in my mind that the nexus works....
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post #53 of 64
7/8/05 at 5:03am
Thread Starter 
thing is it has gotten progressivelly worse in the last year. I would be able to play games for a good 1 before it slowed down, not it cant go past 30 minutes before slowing down. This might be because games are becoming more and more indepth.
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post #54 of 64
7/8/05 at 11:35am
Did anyone try slapping on some AS5 on the CPU or the GPU? I'm thinking about it but with undervolting the CPU already stays around 50 C when under heavy load.
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post #55 of 64
7/8/05 at 3:00pm
Thread Starter 
I am going to undervolt i might do that today actually. Will let you know how it goes.
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post #56 of 64
7/12/05 at 1:06pm
Hey gang!! Long time, no type!! Been having a good time with my replacement 600m. Runs nicely and tight as a button compared to my old one. To be honest, 'bout the only thing I can complain of is still that ram door. My Toshiba HD never gets over about 48C, and typically runs in the mid 40's so I'm fine with that, but the ram (and more specifically the ram bay door) still gets rather hot when the laptop's plugged into AC. I'm seriously contemplating a couple things............

#1.) Milling/Drilling some slots or holes in the ram bay door like the old D5xx latitudes used to have

#2.) Milling/Drilling some slots or holes just above the audio plugs in the plastic covering the HD bay on the side. I already noticed some improvement by removing the PCMCIA black-plastic blank out of there ('cuz there's some small gaps between the bays that will allow that air to escape) and I figure if HD's have breather holes from spinning, why not put that inertia to work by perforating that small area of plastic with some small ventilation slots of holes to cool the HD even further?? Or at least let it breathe better than it does with that plastic darn-near sealed up???

Any opinions??
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post #57 of 64
7/12/05 at 2:18pm
Most of the ideas you mentioned I've heard before. Let me summarize.

Quote:
Originally Posted by redgtxdi
but the ram (and more specifically the ram bay door) still gets rather hot when the laptop's plugged into AC.
I noticed that it's typically hotter on the AC because the battery is charging.

Quote:
#1.) Milling/Drilling some slots or holes in the ram bay door like the old D5xx latitudes used to have
To see if it'll make a difference, take off the memory door completly and compare the temps. You'll probably see a drop of couple of degrees which is probably just some error. Not enough.

Quote:
#2.) Milling/Drilling some slots or holes just above the audio plugs in the plastic covering the HD bay on the side. I already noticed some improvement by removing the PCMCIA black-plastic blank out of there ('cuz there's some small gaps between the bays that will allow that air to escape) and I figure if HD's have breather holes from spinning, why not put that inertia to work by perforating that small area of plastic with some small ventilation slots of holes to cool the HD even further?? Or at least let it breathe better than it does with that plastic darn-near sealed up???
The toshiba HD has a vent hole at the bottom and the caddy blocks it but the temeratures dont' seem to be any higher or lower than on other HDs that have the breathing hole on the top.

Quote:
Any opinions??
I've been suggesting this for a while: take out the entire pcmcia assembly (not just the black place holder or a pcmcia card) and install a small fan there. It should cool down both the HD and the area on top of the RAM.

Oh, and someone put cooling pads over the RAM sticks.
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post #58 of 64
7/12/05 at 2:35pm
I definitely think your pcmcia fan idea has merit.......(I pondered this with a buddy but it would be hard to put a fan of any worth in there considering you've have to overcome the blockage of simply *having* something there anyway and you'd also incur more power drain).......but you'd also have to perforate a little better to both of those areas as my previous investigating showed very little (and probably coincidental at that) ventilation between the spaces.(though I still keep the pcmcia plastic blank outta' there for optimization).

Perhaps that's what you mean by removing the entire pcmcia bay (metal/plast surround and all). Otherwise, I think perforating might still at least help because you do still have 2 methods of travel..........Air going in and air going out and if it helps either of those scenarios, I think it's better than the *completely sealed* scenario that Dell employs right now. (Which would probably work better if ventilation was designed into the case, but it's really not).

When I get a chance, I'll run it over to the machine shop and give it a try & see what results.
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post #59 of 64
7/13/05 at 2:54am
OK. I'm going to stump some myths in this thread.




Quote:
1.) Milling/Drilling some slots or holes in the ram bay door like the old D5xx latitudes used to have
I drilled multiple holes within my i8600c's RAM doors and it made little to ZERO difference. It's also a MAJOR pain in the ass to do and you risk shorting out your components. Not Recommended.

Quote:
Talking to your self Ivar?

Well plastic isn't the best conductor, remember that your computer is constantly generating heat and it has to go somewhere. Besides metal to plastic is going to take the heat better than plastic to air (since that is what a fan would be doing blowing on the base.
The Nexus is one of the most useless pieces of shit I've ever purchased. I got it from Newegg and posted a negative but honest review there, but they deleted it. Morons.
It didn't decreases temperatures even *1* centigrade! I even took off my 8600's feet, so it was plastic to metal.

What a waste of money.


Quote:
Oh, and someone put cooling pads over the RAM sticks.
That'd be me.

I'd only recommend this if you're planning to use a notebook cooler under your laptop.
This is HANDS DOWN the best way to cool down your laptop.

I got a Evercool NP-101 from Acortech for $16 shipped & taxed with free shipping code PRICEWATCH.
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post #60 of 64
8/14/05 at 5:36pm
Thread Starter 
An update to this. I tried the undervolt process. Got my 1.8ghz centrino down to a .700 min and a 1.164 max. The notebook stays cooler all around. However playing world of warcraft/half life for about an hour produces the same result of slowing down to a crawl. Before the mod it would only take about 15-30 minutes before the overheating. Thing is RMclock does not report over heating etc. Could it be memory that is overheating? I would not think so.

Anyways on battery, I gain about 15 minutes max with the undervolt. Disappointing if you ask me. Thanks.
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