My New RIG 3DMark05 Score

thats not very good

did you do it without many things on your computer?

For that card, that score is right where it should be. That being just behind the 6800.

Yep, score looks about right to me.

That's pretty good. Can you post your scores Jack22? Maybe list a few optimizations you did?

A few benchie tweaking tips:
1. Close all processes and programs which are not needed
2. OC if you can to the maximum. depending on how ethical you are, it dosnt need to be 100% stable, as long as it can complete the benchmark, even with artifacts all over the place.
3. Set all sliders in your video card settings to Performance instead of Quality
4. Set priority of the benchmarking program to Realtime.

That way, (OC being 100% stable, no artifacts and useable 24/7) i managed to coax 19,900 3Dmark01 marks out of a:
2.4C @ 3.3GHz
Asus P4P800 mobo
ATi Radeon 9800 (non pro)
2x 512MB Generic PC3200
And 6338 3Dmark03 marks too. No bios flashes whatsoever except for the latest bios from Asus for the mobo, which was about a year ago.

Also managed to do this: http://service.futuremark.com/compare?2k1=8264473 to my notebook, when the initial bench on 01 at the showroom was around 8k. After a fresh install of windows, it was around 10k, then after optimizations, 100% stable, it was almost 13k.

How the frik do you oc. Skip the noob stuff because i've never really gamed until now so skip that bullsh*t. If i knew i would oc but i am not sure how. you are welcome to tell me though or link me to somewhere. i searched myself and came up negative and i'll post my socres for the '05 in a minute

Download powerstrip.

Don't just dive into OC'ing, or your gonna toast your pc.

First, i got coolbits and nvidia chooses an optimized setting for me. 2nd, my cp shuts off if it gets too hot. 3rdly, it got me 5401 in 3d '05 marks

Of course, You gotta do your research before you go into OC. But basically, all OC is on a video card is:

1. Raise clockspeeds by a bit, maybe 5MHz - 10MHz (memory, or core, or both)
2. Run a stress test eg. rthribl or any form of 3DMark, 05 being the best to stress test.
3. Check for artifacts. eg. strange shapes that appear on the screen, sparkly snow, or long jagged lines, or just lines across your screen that wont usually be there before.
4. If there are no artifacts, go back to step one, if there are, lower the clockspeeds by a bit and stress test again

Things to remember: The higher your clockspeeds, the higher the heat generated by the part that you're OCing, eg. you OC the core, the core gets hotter. If you only OC the memory, the memory gets hotter but not the core. Also, technically, OCing voids the warrenty of your card, unless you're only OCing via the Overdrive on ATi cards.
So, the better the cooling on your card, the better the OC.
Also, not every card is made equal. A card could be totally horrible at OC with a peltier cooling system strapped to it, or it could be absolutely amazing with stock cooling, in that case, it all depends on luck.

also. apparently, Jack, Prescott cored CPUs are famous for their heat problems. Only way to solve that is with a better CPU heatsink, or a casemod that ducted cool air directly to the CPU.

I have to make sure that's what i got...h/o..........ok yea it's a presscot. But i also have about 5 fans going in there and the side is off so tons of air and venteltion. Thanks for the heads-up.

Thats what led me to H20, the Intel LGA 775 fan sounds like a damn jet engine, way too loud.

Nice looking H2O system, what are the parts? Radiator? Waterblocks? Tube type? (eg. Tygon, Clearflex60, generic garden hose, etc.) T-Line or Res? Any more pics?

I really need to get my parts in soon. When i came to aus, i was restricted by the weight i could carry onto the plane, so i ended up having to dump my case and most of my WC parts in HK. Waiting for them to arrive in the mail right now. Now, i got this cheap generic case and the only cooling system i have in there is a Thermalright NB-1C going on the NB and no OC on anything. Today was seriously hot and during some WoW, my system kept beeping cuz it was too hot. Proc was into the 60's, graphics card into the mid 70's and NB into the 50's. Man this sux, cant wait to get back to good ole H2O.

Man that sucks, about losing your case and all. I have the Danger Den TDX LGA 775 water block, Maze 4 GPU cooler, 3/8's blue tubing, 5.25" dual port reseviour, Danger Den 12V pump, and the Black Ice Extreme Radiator, with blue powdercoat.

System works pretty well, I hang around 23C at idle and around 40C completely overclocked. I am looking into making some modifications and changing cases here soon.

Man, that's one sweet system.

Before i left, i had a Dangerden RBX with Lucite top CPU block and a Silverprop Cyclone FusionHL GPU Block, Dual D-Tek JR-120 Radiators (120MM heatercores), custom made res, a Swiftech MCP600 pump and 1/2" ID Clearflex60 with 1/8" walls. Temps when fully OCed at 3.3GHz were 24 celcius idle and 38 celcius load never bothered to measure the temps at stock. Man, those were the days.

Now, i have a stock Intel cooler, the stock ATi heatsink and a Thermalright NB-1C. At stock 2.4GHz, im doing 42 celcius Idle, 63 celcius load

Man this sux...

Anyway, got some pics of your setup? I really do wanna see the whole thing and how it's routed through. Also, what additives did you use for the UV reactive lighting (assuming u added something into the water and not only depending on the tubes) and antibacterial agent?

I'm slacking at work today, I'll get some more pics tonight sine I am going to change the case out anyway. So far Silverstone is winning the case selection game.

As far as alge preventaive fluids I currently just use 10% glycol 10% red line water wetter, the rest is distilled water. I ordered the new MCT-40 from DD but I have not received it yet.

Hmmm, changing out to MCT-40? never heard of that stuff. At least it's cheaper than Fluid XP. If you can, write a review of the MCT-40 and compare it with your current setup. Should be very interesting due to it being non conductive and having a very low freezing point (-40C as stated on the site). Could possibly be used in a chilled water loop.