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5670 Upgrade to 5690 (D500E) PROBLEMS, Power issues, and Fan Chirping on 5690!!

post #1 of 13
Thread Starter 
I recently had to gut and upgrade my laptop. I upped the guts from 5670 to 5690. That was about a month ago. At that time the computer was running:


5690 (D500E) Original Config after upgrade

3.06 P4 HT Enabled (Not Mobile Chip, full P4)
533 FSB
1024mb PC2100 Corsair XMS
ATI M11 (Omega)
Latest Bios Available to fix video issue


I just finished upgrading the CPU this afternoon and have run into a number of problems. My Configuration Now is:

5690 (D500E)

3.4 P4 Prescott HT
800 FSB
1024 PC2100 Corsair XMS
ATI M11 (Omega)


Since Upgrading the CPU I now have a number of issues. First of all and most noticeable is the inadequate 5670 Power Brick. It had enough juice for the initial configuration. However with the additional power draw from the new processor, any intensive programs (games, 3D, etc..) cause the power supply to switch off in its anti short circuit protocal, after which I need to unplug it both from the PC and the AC briefly to reset it. I have a 5690 Power Brick on order now.

The second issue is a DRAMATIC increase in CPU Heat. At idle, the temp now sits steady at about 52C. This is despite of a very good heatsink lapping job, and a very meticulous application of Arctic Silver 5. The fans run constantly, though not always fast. Still they used to turn off occasionally.

Now my last problem may be a result of the increased CPU temp, but I'm not sure. I am now getting that rediculous FAN CHIRPING so many people have described with their 5680. I am wondering if there is a kb bios revision available for the 5690. I am also interester in swapping my FN and Ctrl keys so that the FN is inside the Ctrl. Anyone have any answers for me here?

I am going slightly nuts with all this.....

*:UPDATE:*
I have discovered that the apparent chirping is actually coming from my half broken power brick. The noise issues when the power consumption of my computer just approaches the limits of the half-dead brick. I believe it is the small fan in the power brick, which hasn't started in some months. This is part of what I believe the problem with the unit to be; either a burnt temp sensor, or the fan control unit. The chirping = death throes.

Also, I was able to flash my KB Bios. I successfully used the modified file posted for download by Adam for the 5680. The file was listed to swap the Fn and Ctrl keys as well as deal with the internal fan chirping issues. I have completed it and have had no problems at all! My computer my be a fluke however, so attempt it at your own risk. I would recommend getting the latest normal KB Bios release from Sager for the 5690 before attempting, just in case you need to undo it (be sure to make 2 floppies, one with the normal 5690, and the other with the modified 5680. If the KB Bios is messed up you won't be able to boot and create your restore disk after the fact!)
post #2 of 13
so, you would not happen to have an extra 5670 motherboard laying around now would you?
post #3 of 13
also, where did you get the motherboard? since sager says they will not sell them
post #4 of 13
Thread Starter 
Unfortunately, no I do not posess a goot 5670 mb. The driving force behind the upgrade was the fact that the power regulation circuit on the 5670 quite literally burnt, taking several components around that region of the mb with it (not repairable as I have the schematics and buzzed the thing out) along with several traces.

As for where I got the stuff, you need to contact Clevo by way of Golden Star Computer USA, Sager's ODM. They are the ones who actually manufacture the computers. The email address for the people who will sell the parts is support@goldenstarusa.com. Depending on which cpu and supported technologies your 5670 supported, the equivalent Clevo models are as follows:

5670 Supporting 533fsb, 3.06 HT P4 = Clevo 5600DS
5670 NOT Supporting HT = Clevo 5600D

Be sure you are very specific as to what you need, as the English speaking level at the headquarters is not very good. They ship UPS and don't take credit cards. If you are nice, they will usually do a COD. Expect to be price raped, as they are the only people who sell the components and they know it. The reason Sager won't sell parts is that they buy very specific numbers of components at bulk in order to fill very specific repair need expectations. That is how they keep repair costs for their customers down, and that to them is more important than making external profit via component sales. Makes sense, from a business standpoint, but its damn inconvenient for the rest of us!

Anyway.....
I'm not positive, but I believe both mb will fit in the same chasis and utilize the same cooling solutions. I don't have a MB, what I do however have is :

Working 5670 Heatsink and Fan Assembly (one unit, not seperable)
Working 5670 HD Convertor board
Bottom Case panel and covers

A VERY RARE P4 3.06 HT SL6S5 Costa Rica Processor (Fastest available 533fsb, socket 478 CPU; SL6S5 is best of series for OverClocking; Costa Rica and Malay are top two origin factories for OverClocking)

I also have the Service manual for the 5670 which has detailed instructions for assembly/disassembly. Ask any questions you have!

Also, if anyone has any suggestions for the problems listed in my original post, please let me know!
post #5 of 13
About the only thing I can suggest as far as the heat build up (the chirping brick, I suspect is not fixable), is that you have an airpocket trapped in the Arctic silver, or you failed to completely clean the heatsink.

Neither sounds applicable in your case as I can tell you know what you're doing just by your description.

Air pockets, however, do happen to the best of us, and the wiggle room on a 56xx machine is so small that rotating the heatsink back and forth during application is a little tricky.
post #6 of 13
Thread Starter 
Yeah I've thought of that. Haven't checked it yet though. When I do arctic silver apps, I follow the advice of a few cronic OC'ers I know. Their method is as follows:

1. Clean both heatsink and processor meticulously with 96% Isopropyl (some prefer Mineral Spirits, but I prefer the nothing left behind aspect of alcohol).

2. Then I use a piece of clean PVC plastic wrap to spread a thin layer onto the processor, which is then booted, with the heatsink off, long enough to go through it's POST and immeniatly turned off and allowed to cool completely. The momentary startup heats the processor enough to aid the AC in filling in gaps and imperfections in the processor surface.

3. After it cools I then use a piece of silk cloth to wipe off, without scrubbing, the AC from the processor until it looks clean to the naked eye.

4.Tape off on the heatsink (lapped of course) where it contacts the processor, and using the scotch tape as a thickness guide as well as a stencil of sorts to spread the thinnest possible layer of AS (it comes out to be like .003" thick or something crazy like that).

5. After that it's a simple process of removing the tape stencil and lowering the heatsink straight down onto the processor and bolting it.

Thats how I always do it. I know it takes about 5 High heat/complete cooldown cycles before you will start to see anything that is a reasonably close estimate to what the final temp ranges will be (AS requires like 200 hours to fully cure.)

But you are absolutely right, the most likely issue is a dang air pocket...with my luck dead center over the core I have considered doing it the way Arctic Silver suggests. Its a stupidly simple process of cleaning both surfaces, applying a blob of compound about the size of a half-pea. Then simply putting the heatsink in place and allowing the pressure (I use spring screws so there is a constant pressure exerted on the processor/heatsink interface) and heat spread it minutely thin for you. They also say to only use this method for AS 5, not for any earlier compounds.

So gerry, how do you usually apply it? I willing to try just about anything because this heat has really got me concerned. Intel says that 50C is the low end of normal for this processor. While that may be true it is certainly not helpful when it raises the overall system temp by 10C. I mean I've looked around and found that at the bleeding edge, there are a few desktop users with this processor who run stable and consistent at 4.2ghz @ 101C!! Thats just insane to me but it does demonstrate a considerable level of survivability for the chip. I digress...any suggestions on how to improve my process of thermal grease PLEASE PLEASE let me know!
post #7 of 13
so how much was the new motherboard, and did you even price a new 5670 motherboard, and if so how much cheaper was it than the 5690 one?
post #8 of 13
I employ a far easier method...I simply follow the directions (though I will lap the heatsink).

And its a grain of rice, not a half pea--whoa! That's enough for a dozen heatsinks.

http://www.arcticsilver.com/arctic_s...structions.htm

I've heard of the tape method, which seems to me to be more of a "neatness" issue than adding any more efficiency to the removal of heat--plus, I spend a lot of time cleaning the heatsink/cpu--why would I want to add sticky gum back.

I find air pockets are a far greater cause of problems and twisting the cpu works well--though in the Sager, you get almost no flexibility in this way (though AS says you only need a degree or two, which is possible--at least in the 5680).

Of course, I don't OC -- the merits of which are overrated. I find most people who do so are doing so more because they can rather than for any real improvement.

So much of the Performance of a system is based on things not related to CPU speed--plus, what do you really get from overclocking?

At best, you're talking a 10 percent boost in performance at an increased risk and a shorter system life. It's just not worth it today. Now, when I had an AMD 300mhtz over-clocked to 525mhtz--that was a risk worth taking, but todays CPUs are already running at such an optimized state that the yield to risk ratio lacks any real benefit...least to me.
post #9 of 13
Thread Starter 
Couldn't agree with you more on the overclocking issue! Perhaps you're onto something with the too much AC. Hell if I have been too liberal with it, more than likely its terrefic heat capacitance is in fact working against me! I shall try re-application according to their (and your) suggestions. I am willing to try so soon simply because I have been cycling my computer through hot/cold as often as I can in an effort to aid the curing process, and as yet have seen no change in overal average temperature. It is still sitting right around 53C

ChrisChris, Clevo charges $765 for the 5690 MB. I never priced the 5670. However if you want to do the upgrade to 5690, you will need other parts as well. Here is the complete part/price list of what I needed to do my upgrade:

MB $765
Bottom case is U$30
Cpu cover is U$4
Hestsink is U$30
System fan is U$40
HDD Converter/Board $12.00

Now, you can get away with using the AC adaptor for the 5670 with the 5690 board provided you stay with a 533FSB processor, including the 3.06HT. As soon as you install anything 800FSB, northwood or prescott (clevo board suports both) you need to get the 5690 AC adaptor.whick I think pctorque sells for like $80

So the total involved in doing it yourself comes out to be like anywhere between 889 and 969 plus shipping, which for me for UPS Ground from CA to MA was $18.

Now, as far as I know, if you purchased your computer from Sager originally, they have a 56xx to 5690 upgrade program. there was a thread regarding it somewhere on the forums.....Here it is. They want $845 for the parts and labor to do the install, so overall it will probably will be cheaper, or just a bit more expensive counting shipping and insurance to Sager than the low end of doing it yourself.

My computer when I bought it was from Alienware, and they flatly refuse to deal with you outside of warranty. Sager also refused to perform the upgrade for me. So I dug up the vendor for the parts and did the damn upgrade myself! The increase in performance was extremely noticeable, however the upgrade was fairly hairy. Cleve does not include the fastners (screws) to put all the new parts together. By mixing and matching what I had from taking apart my 5670, I was able to discover a configuration that worked (as in everything was screwed down where it needed to be). In addition, you will be deconstructing the entire maching, minus the LCD case. So quite literally you will be rebuilding your computer. The entire process took me about 4 hours, which is actually quite a while. it took me so long simply because I was unfarmiliar with the computer and it's assembly despite having the manuals. It can however be done, and I'm fairly confident that most people could do it with the service manual on hand. Oh and to answer you're original question, no I never did price a 5670 MB.

Ok so anyhow, I will reapply the AS according to gerry sugestions! Then we shall see!
post #10 of 13
thanks for the info
post #11 of 13
Sorry to bring up old news, but what is the part number on the 5670 fan assembly???

I've searched and searched for it and can't seem to find it. I'm upgrading a machine to a 3.06 and I'm worried of heat.
post #12 of 13
Well since someone bump this post up ,the processor (prescot core) you put in runs alot hotter than the one you replaced. Intel got alot of flack for this issue.
post #13 of 13
Quote:
Originally Posted by mike@atomicstud
Sorry to bring up old news, but what is the part number on the 5670 fan assembly???

I've searched and searched for it and can't seem to find it. I'm upgrading a machine to a 3.06 and I'm worried of heat.
Check the stickies up top there and pull down the manual for the 5670.
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