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STi Sev's Poopy Sterling Silver DDR Pads (results inside)

post #1 of 36
Thread Starter 
OK. Initial Sev's Sterlin Silver DDR results are in.
I removed the original Dell RAM and left 1x512MB PNY PC2700 DDR RAM in the slot. I wanted to make sure the RAM would work properly before attempting it on both. After a restart, my computer hung after a few seconds. My heart nearly stopped, but I roughed up the courage to force reboot. Everything went smoothly after a reboot. Maybe the Arctic Silver 5 (AC5) was settling in a home.

I applied arctic silver 5 on the RAM blocks and very thin layer on the SS (sterling silver) block itself. The DDR pads measure 6x1 CM (LxW) with a thickness of 1.5mm (same thickness as GMCloud's video card's GPU block piece).

Stress Prime 2004 Download
I then loaded up Stress Prime 2004 (Prime95 core, redesigned).
I ran the torture test "Large, in-place FFTs- stress RAM", so this is as bad as the temps get as far as RAM is concerned.

Here are the initial results:
---------------
48* C @ 5 minutes 23 seconds
47*C @ 7 minutes 49 seconds
(NOTE: At first it was at 49*C, but it went to 47*C during a torture test)
46* 9 minutes 15 seconds
48*C 9 minutes 35 seconds
48*C 10 minutes 14 seconds
49*C 12 minutes 11 seconds
50*C 13 minutes 5 seconds (going to and forth from 49*C)
48*C 14 minutes 2 seconds
47*C 16 minutes 30 seconds
(never exceed 48*C) 18 minutes ++++
--------------
For bookkeeping purposes, I've decided to include the rest of my temps. They generally hung around these temps.

65*C - CPU
55*C - CPU (@ 16 minutes 30 seconds of RAM testing)
47*C - GPU (w/ sterling silver GPU mod)
37*C - HD
GPU - 49*C


So was it worth it? That is the question I'm asking myself while banging my forehead repeatedly on my desk, as I forgot to note what temps were BEFORE the mod. lol!
I definitely feel a LOT better that I've got a big block of almost pure silver (93%+) polished to a mirror-like finish cooling my GPU and now my RAM.

I imagine that there'll be a bottleneck to the temps, since the silver can only take in so much head. Some of the heat is transferred to the bottom plastic piece, but not as much as before (since the silver is absorbing most of the heat).

I made TWO DDR blocks, so I'll install the other soon and note any changes in results.


My next project is to somehow figure out a way of channeling the HD's massive amount of heat AWAY from the left palm rest, so I can type THAT review comfortably.





post #2 of 36
Artic Silver usually takes ~3 days to settle in completely. So I'd say test the RAM again in a week or so.

Where did you get these pads from? I'd be interested in getting them myself, and doing the heat mod to my i8500 with them as well as the RAM in my i8500 and my 700m.
post #3 of 36
That's awful close to the resistors at the bottom edge. I don't think you wanna short those puppies out!
post #4 of 36
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gold Beater
That's awful close to the resistors at the bottom edge. I don't think you wanna short those puppies out!
I suggest you just leave it. If you tighten it too much your notebook won't work, and it's working fine now. So no need to mess with it.
post #5 of 36
I think you should slide the plate up a little. The paste might settle and allow the plate to slump down and make contact.
post #6 of 36
Does anyone know where exactly is the RAM temperature sensor on the motherboard?

Why not just give it some ventilation:
http://notebookforums.com/showpost.p...3&postcount=21
post #7 of 36
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Artic Silver usually takes ~3 days to settle in completely. So I'd say test the RAM again in a week or so.
Where did you read that? I always heard it took an hour.

Quote:
Where did you get these pads from? I'd be interested in getting them myself, and doing the heat mod to my i8500 with them as well as the RAM in my i8500 and my 700m.
My father, who is master jeweler (engraving/enameling/ring design & creation/watch repair/etc) for ove 55 years made it for me. We ordered the silver from a company he frequents, but he needed to 1) cut it 2) buff it 3) polish it 4) clean it.

Quote:
I'm not sure if it'll fit but you can try putting 510m's (ancestor of 600m) memory door which has vent holes in it:
Why didn't I think about that? I'm going to research that drawer since I don't want to do any hacking myself.



I should also note that I've got -4- plastic rubber lifters on my computer which lift up my computer higher from the desk (very slightly). The point is to give the computer more space under for a) fans to blow b) heat to dissipate

Right now my RAM is at 32*C, but my room is cold and I just booted my computer a few minutes ago.
post #8 of 36
Quote:
Originally Posted by STi Sev
Why didn't I think about that? I'm going to research that drawer since I don't want to do any hacking myself.
510m's memory door most likely won't fit the 8600. But will fit the 600m/d600/500m. Get an extra 8600 memory door for <$20 and hack away.

Before you buy anything, perform the tests w/o the memory door. If the room you're in isn't ventilated, I doubt it will make a difference because hot air will just rise up to the laptop.

I'm half way to 1K posts:
post #9 of 36
Without airflow, those things actually act like insulators, which will make them hotter.
post #10 of 36
Quote:
Originally Posted by sonicwind
Without airflow, those things actually act like insulators, which will make them hotter.
My theory is that those DDR pads absorb the heat and hold it well, transfering it slower, and thereby fooling the temperature sensor. That's how you get the lower temps. Meanwhile, the RAM is hotter than ever.
post #11 of 36
Quote:
Originally Posted by STi Sev
Where did you read that? I always heard it took an hour.
UHHHH...directly from Arctic Silver (scroll to the bottom of the page):

Important Reminder:
Due to the unique shape and sizes of the particles in Arctic Silver 5's conductive matrix, it will take a up to 200 hours and several thermal cycles to achieve maximum particle to particle thermal conduction and for the heatsink to CPU interface to reach maximum conductivity. (This period will be longer in a system without a fan on the heatsink or with a low speed fan on the heatsink.) On systems measuring actual internal core temperatures via the CPU's internal diode, the measured temperature will often drop 2C to 5C over this "break-in" period. This break-in will occur during the normal use of the computer as long as the computer is turned off from time to time and the interface is allowed to cool to room temperature. Once the break-in is complete, the computer can be left on if desired.
post #12 of 36
Thread Starter 
Quote:
My theory is that those DDR pads absorb the heat and hold it well, transfering it slower, and thereby fooling the temperature sensor. That's how you get the lower temps. Meanwhile, the RAM is hotter than ever.
I'll try to concoct some solution for airflow.
post #13 of 36
Quote:
Originally Posted by STi Sev
So are you saying that the DDR pads actually make things worse?
I'm saying is that the heat has to go somewhere and the faster it gets there (preferably away from the laptop) the better.

I would somehow measure the temperature of the ram stick manually with and without the pads.
post #14 of 36
i suggest using artic alumina. its proven that artic silver WILL short leads out as it DOES contain silver.
post #15 of 36
Quote:
Originally Posted by ixeo
i suggest using artic alumina. its proven that artic silver WILL short leads out as it DOES contain silver.
I like ceramique (also from Arctic) - NON-conductive!
post #16 of 36
I tried it using a different piece of metal but same concept and its great. i'm at 10 minutes into the stress test and my dimm temp is at 46 deg c!
post #17 of 36
Quote:
Originally Posted by HotStuff2
UHHHH...directly from Arctic Silver (scroll to the bottom of the page):

Important Reminder:
Due to the unique shape and sizes of the particles in Arctic Silver 5's conductive matrix, it will take a up to 200 hours and several thermal cycles to achieve maximum particle to particle thermal conduction and for the heatsink to CPU interface to reach maximum conductivity. (This period will be longer in a system without a fan on the heatsink or with a low speed fan on the heatsink.) On systems measuring actual internal core temperatures via the CPU's internal diode, the measured temperature will often drop 2C to 5C over this "break-in" period. This break-in will occur during the normal use of the computer as long as the computer is turned off from time to time and the interface is allowed to cool to room temperature. Once the break-in is complete, the computer can be left on if desired.
I'm quoting myself here, people. You CANNOT slap on some Arctic Silver and then run tests. You MUST let Arctic Silver "settle in" for up to 200 hours of use, and several power-ons and power-offs.

Have you people never done any serious modding?
post #18 of 36
well, the problem is, is there any side-effects to running tests without waiting for the breakin period? Cause whatever I did there, its working.. the memory door touches the pad (case my piece of metal touchs the mem, then has a piece that rises and touchs the door) and the memory door is really hot so the heat is moving upwards
post #19 of 36
The side-effects aren't much, but the temps can fluctuate due to the paste not fully settling. It's better to wait for the break-in period, THEN do the testing.
post #20 of 36
too late... I use my laptop for photoshop and some extreme gaming and i haven't really seen any temp flux yet... its actually pretty stable but I only turn it off like once per 2 or 3 days...
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