For any brave soul, I have one last attempt to solve the flicker.....

Well, here we go again..........


Today I tried one last thing. I no longer beleive the inverter is totally at fault. The reason being there could be slight manufacturing variances between two inverters. Meaning the pins that the connector touches may be ever so slightly different in diameter.

So, today I removed the wiring harness completely, and removed every single wire from the connector that goes onto the inverter. Then I pinched them tighter and reinstalled them back into the connector. I then hot glued the wiring harness to the LCD frame plastic so there is no way they will ever move again while opening and closing the LCD. Of course, just like all my other fixes it is working great for now............

The reason I decided to try this is if I moved the LCD lid ever so slightly on its hinges it flickered like mad. As I did this I watched the wires, and what do ya know, they wiggled back and fourth in the connector, thus allowing them to loosen up.

Procedure: (Quick)

1.) Follow my guide to disassemble the bottom, to gain access to the motherbaord.
2.) Follow my guide to disassemble the LCD frame.
3.) Remove the wire from the inverter and the motherboard. Then remove the screw on the heatsink to allow complete removal of the harness.
4.) Make sure to rotate the harness with the screw so you do not damage the wires.
5.) On the inverter side only, use a very very small flat head, and bend the little white fingers out of the way to allow the wires to come out of the connector. Pay attention to the order they go in.
6.) Next pinch them tighter (not all the way closed).
7.) Paying attention to the way they go back in, press all of them back into the connector and then take your screwdriver and press the fingers back in tight so they hold the wires securly.
8.) Install the screw into the heatsink and tighten. Then plug the connector into the motherboard and route the wire back in it original location.
9.) Insert the connector into the inverter very carfully and if any wires pop out, press them back in with a flat head, do not pull the connector out of the inverter because it makes it more prone to be loose again.
10.) Glue the wiring harness to the LCD plastic so it cannot in any way rotate when you open and close the LCD. If you have no warranty, if you want, glue each wire into the connector. This will help them from moving.

Let me know how it worked. This is the last resort other than making your own harness and soldering directly to the motherboard and inverter.

So do I hear any brave souls out there????

No, but have you ever tried to hook up your PC speaker and find that the connector is not right? Then you have to use a flat head to unlatch the wires. Same thing.

Well, this seemed to do it. I took the laptop over a real lethal road in my pickup, and the LCD was flapping like crazy. It never flickered and it still isn't. The suspension is so stiff, me any the laptop left the seat a fews times.

I will denfinatly keep you folks posted on this one. I have my fingers crossed this did the trick.

Well, today it is still perfect, I took it for a 4 hour ride today and it never flickered. I know this fixed the problem for good. I have emailed FiZi my new guide and I have my fingers crossed he will post it soon. Unfortunatly I do not have a good closeup of the harness.

There are small white fingers the latch the wires in. It is not one bit easy, it took me about 45min to get them out. Getting them back in is a nightmare.

As long as you glue the harness in place, it should not loosen up again. It is the opening and closing that ruins the connection.

So.......... has anyone been brave enough to try it out? Mine has been flawless since. This thread has been pretty quiet for the number of members that have this problem.

Nice find!! I will have to say that before I got my laptops, I loved CRT's over LCD's. Now it is the other way. The only downside to LCDs is you cannot have a good looking picture at other resolutions.

Let me know how you make out with the arctic silver 5. I use it on my 5 desktops and notice the CPU's ran about 4 degrees cooler. The "5" is very hard to apply compared to the older "3".

Zero,

Does yours have any dead pixles?