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Simple Undervolting Tutorial - Pentium M Dothan - Page 20

post #381 of 1202
Damn, to bad.
Somebody knows other tricks to cool down my lappy? I already use compressed air to blow trough the vents. And I'm using I8KFanGUI.
When its hot idle temp is at 45°C. And while gaming it climbs up fast to 70°C.
post #382 of 1202
I hope you didn't use the compressed air to blow into the laptop?

I got 70°C on my 5100 alot. When I got over 76°C, it shutdown. Often happened playing games.
post #383 of 1202
oh i did,
dust was building up around the fan and it was preventing my cpu from cooling. When idle temp is @ 50 degrees blow some air through the vents. you will see a cloud of dust coming out and after this idle temp is about 40 till 45 degrees.
But on hot days i really need extra cooling. And i hoped that this thread was my saviour.
besides, those hot temperatures result in your cpu's transistors to wear out and CPU liftime will become shorter.
post #384 of 1202
I don't know if this would apply to computers, but as a photographer, many other pros have said to never use compressed air inside a camera. It can force dust into areas where it shouldn't be, ruin shutters, etc. You can use compressed air but you have to be very careful just using little puffs. A soft, clean bush and vacuum cleaner is much safer.

I open up my notebooks and blow out my fans, heat sinks, etc. from the inside. Preferably taking parts out so I can see exactly what I'm doing. Maybe that was what you meant, but I'd never blow into my 'puter. I imagine dust in the wrong place could create a circuit where one's not supposed to be.

Can never be too careful, especially with something I depend on for my living.
post #385 of 1202
^^^

Dust isn't typically electrically conductive (unless you do a lot of metal work/grinding at home). The reason photographers don't use compressed air in camera is because they don't want to blow air into the optics. A nice dust bunny between the lens and the shutter would pretty much ruin every picture and it would be next to impossible to remove. The only optics in your PC is the DVD/CD laser lens but you won't effect it unless you blow air right into the drive (which I don't recommend).

Hope this helps,

Martian
post #386 of 1202
Quote:
Originally Posted by Martian
...The reason photographers don't use compressed air in camera is because they don't want to blow air into the optics. A nice dust bunny between the lens and the shutter would pretty much ruin every picture and it would be next to impossible to remove...
lol I've never known a pro photog that uses a camera with non-detachable lens except as a snap-shooter. But you're absolutely right about blowing into lenses - nothing good can happen.
post #387 of 1202
So I downloaded RMclock and without making any adjustments it shows that my CPU is running at 798.0000 or whatever... If I understand how this program works my system runs my pentium M 2.0 at .8 right? Anybody have any idea why the F that is!?!?!?!?!
post #388 of 1202
By doing this will it allow you to OC the GPU a tad more?
post #389 of 1202
I think your 0.798v reading would have been when you are running at 600Mhz. The processor only goes to max if you are doing something that needs it, or if you set it to Max. Performance in CHC.
post #390 of 1202
Well, I am amazed, and here are my results:

Max Performance Clock
1.308 CPU 54*C (129*F) GPU 50 (stock)
1.084 CPU 43*C (109*F) GPU 46 (undevolted)

11*C (20*F) Drop in temperature

Min Clock
0.998 CPU 36*C (97*F) GPU 44 (stock)
0.700 CPU 32*C (90*F) GPU 43 (undervolted)

4*C (7*F) Drop in temperature

The 11*C drop in temp when under full load is awesome, it even helps keep my GPU temp down (probably due to the fact that the heat pipes and fans are staying cooler). However it is working, I couldn't be happier. Thanks to everyone who contributed to this thread (I actually read all 26 pages last night and today) and special thanks to needledik!!

Now I just need to figure out all of RM Clock. Or are a lot of people out there using Centrino Hardware Control?
post #391 of 1202
I'm using CHC, and I have been progressively pushing my max voltage down. I am at 1.164v atm.
post #392 of 1202
i got a 1.6 Dothan and im running at 1.036v at maximal 1600MHz (x16)

asus probe says my cpu temp under a load for 5 hours is 51°C (123°F) from 63°C DAMN! thats 12° lower! my fan never passes 3K RPM now
post #393 of 1202
off topic: at tar heel guy, never use a vacuum cleaner in a computer
vacuum creates static electricity which is bad for computer components
post #394 of 1202
I've just reduced to 1.084v.
post #395 of 1202
Quote:
Originally Posted by Torell
off topic: at tar heel guy, never use a vacuum cleaner in a computer
vacuum creates static electricity which is bad for computer components
i do it all the time with my shop vac, both suck and blow, never had a problem (not even grounded)
post #396 of 1202
Doesn't mean its good though.
post #397 of 1202
Would it be possible for someone to keep a running tab of the minimal and maximum voltage setting for each model of laptop PC that this sticky has been used on? I think that would be so much easier for everyone.

Fo example, someone has an Acer Ferrari 4000. They can just look up the min. and max setting and plug it in so you don't have to waste hours and hours. If no one has listed the Acer Ferrari 4000 yet then that person can run the test and list the min and max settings when they are completed.

Does someone want to get a chart up and running? Does this make sense?
post #398 of 1202
That's a nice idea, but as the thread says: some CPUs are capable more, some are less. It can be used as a reference, but not necessary true for everyone...

Well, why don't you start up a thread? I can post in it my result in an organized manner. (remember to give out a standard posting form too)
post #399 of 1202
Yeah, not a bad idea, but pretty well everybodies system would be different. For example, somebody with an i8600 w/ MR9600 Pro may not be able to go as low as somebody with a less powerful GPU in their 8600.
post #400 of 1202
Quote:
Originally Posted by Vitb6
Fo example, someone has an Acer Ferrari 4000. They can just look up the min. and max setting and plug it in so you don't have to waste hours and hours. If no one has listed the Acer Ferrari 4000 yet then that person can run the test and list the min and max settings when they are completed.
Having numbers for reference is fine. But do not suggest just plugging the lowest setting. Even for the same laptop model it may work for one and freeze or bluescreen some other laptop. For instance, I cannot undervolt my TM8104 as low as some other people can (I saw numbers reported in Acer General forum). I had to do my own work to figure out values.

Relatively safe would be to pick lowest reported value for the upper VID and then add about about 0.6 v to it. Then later you can try to lower it with thorough testing. You still have to run Prime 95 if you want to get it as low as is possible for your particular laptop.
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