A Photo Guide for Pin Modding 9300/XPS and Applying AS5 to GPU - Page 69

is kind of weird that 745, 755 needing that much voltage to run stable in notebooks. my 715 rolled @ 2.6 15x 200 1.34V totally stable in desktop board with a asus ct-479 adapter.

I know it's kind of weird. I think it has to do with the quality of the motherboard, but I don't know for sure.

I would like to add a successful pinmod on a 735 1.7GHz to 2.26GHz. The chip was excellent quality (I guess by pure chance) and it required no extra voltage. Actually, it even undervolted to 1.260 and I'm very happy

Wohoo, after owning my 1.6GHz for 9 months, finally plucked up courage (due to getting a bit sick of the thing overheating all the time anyway) and just put it in my 9300 in place of a 1.76

The little wire bit was very fiddly and I've used Arctic MX-1 as that's all the local shop had but everything has gone extremely well. Not noticed a cooler GPU but CPU is definitely cooler, or rather it cools down much quicker.

Need to burn in the GPU to settle the arctic MX-1 as you don't spread it like silver.

Cheers for the info everyone though. Don't think I'll upgrade graphics though as I fancy an XPS 1330

Will this work in my I9300?

yes the SL7EN is what you want for 1.8 ->2.4 . I was thinking about this mod before I got a M1710 but I didn't like the idea of having to increase the voltage in the laptop. Nonetheless, I would be able to deal wtih that. However, that issue, coupled with the fact that the mod might not even work for frequencies 2.4 and higher made me hold off on attempting it.

Would I have to do the voltage Mod for this CPU? I'm hoping to avoid that. Also, seems some in here have gotten higher then 2.4Ghz. I'm looking to get the most I can without a voltage mod. Guess I need to re-read this thread, its been a long while since I last did! LOL!

ok..never mind above. My memory is refreshed. 1.6 to 1.7 seems the way to go with stock voltage. Thanks!

Yeah, the truly lucky people have been able to get 2.0 -> 2.66 (or 2.53) and others get 1.8 -> 2.4 w/o voltmod. I would call these cases rare though so I'd stick to the 1.7 ->2.26 max especially considering you only have a 1.6 now.
Also note though that I have been seeing a few of these pinmodded cpu's failing over time but you get what you pay for eh? You can still do about 3-4 pinmods and fall under the price of buying the cpu new though

Been lucky, never had a CPU fail. My current and getting quite long in tooth desktop runs a XP1700 (1.47 stock speed) at 2.2Ghz for 4 yrs now. Hope to build a Duo Core system soon...but this one plays my games as well as the I9300. (desktop has an overclocked GF6600GT as well)

Just ordered for my oldest son a new I-1520 (specs in Sig) ...it'll be interesting to see how that CPU works.....

Looking at a 1.6 400fsb Dothan for $23 shipped...hard to pass that up!

haha, I'd buy those at $23 even if I had to get em every 6 months

hey guys, this guide was really good but I wasn't too sure about some procedures. Here's a guide from the alienware forums, http://www.notebookforums.com/thread165929.html. It's for their SLI system but the procedure is the same. It goes through using the Arctic Purifier/Remover stuff and also the proper amounts to put on things. I like it

great stuff. solves my ocing problem on my toshiba notebook.

Ok, the $23 1.6's were gone, so I picked up a 1.7 off Ebay. (like $40 shipped)

Couple Questions. The more detailed link (from the original poster in his post) is dead. I would like to remove the minimum of parts if possible. Reading the SM, do I really need to remove the display? Remove the DVD Drive? Remove the PCI card antennas? (obviously not if I dont remove the display) etc....

I ask because just last last week when my Son's new I-1520 arrived...the display did not work. I fiddled for over an hour (upped the mem to 2Gb while I was in it) Finally I found the just released SM...and ended up taking more things apart (all I wanted and ended up having to do was re-seat the display cable) then I really needed too. LOL.

PS...the new 1520 Rips! T-7300, 8600 GT, WXSGA 1680x1050, 2Gb DDR2, Vista Premium....it plays BF2, GT2 etc with full settings and looks gorgous. Magnesium Chassis, strong hinges, spill proof keyboard...it's not the lightest in its class but no flexy noises at all. Only down is Dell did not include a DVI/HDMI output. In this day of digital tv's there is no excuse. Shame on you Dell.....

Hi, I apologize about my guide not being there anymore. The server I had it hosted on disappeared off the face of the earth. But the guide was detailed more in the concept of the bsel modification process, and subsequent undervolting with rmclock. It didn't tailor directly to the i6000 or i9300.

I believe there are a few step by step guides for the i9300 including pictures along the way. I can't speak for the i9300, but I will comment on the i6000. Maybe it's similar.

Basically, removal of the bottom long screws are necessary to free the top piece of plastic (palmrest, et al). You open the lcd all the way so it's pretty much 180 degrees. Take a flathead and pry off the top panel (power button and led's). From there, there's 2 screws holding the keyboard.

Then, there's a screw holding the module for the power button and some of the led's. Then the module pops right off.

In order to access cpu area, the top panel needs to be removed. There's still 2 more screws.

Now, the lcd half is hinged on with 4 screws. I recall being able to go through the process without removing the screws, but it definitely makes it a whole lot harder, and possibly more unsafe. So really, just remove the screws. You don't really need to disconnect the lcd panel, but if you don't have the workspace to have the panel rest, better not risk having the panel fall and dangle by the wires (I've had that happen a few times, so now I just remove the wires.) If you do remove the wires, the actual connection pops right off. There's 1 screw for the ground wire I believe.

To remove the panel, there's still the minipci card, which rests on top. It's really no big deal to remove at all. Two clips and it pops right off. The two wires for the antennae pop right off too.

Once the panel is removed, just pop off the heatsink and proceed from there.

Well, partial success. It's booting up at 2.26Ghz....and loads Windows. But so far just a minute or two after Windows is fully loaded, I get an Exception Error. No Clue why at this point.

I super cleaned and even sorta lapped the HS's (1000/1500/2000 wet/dry paper with running water) then after careful drying, alcohol clean, then AS5. Got it all put back together. (no spare parts!)

I'll keep trying to let it load and maybe the AS5 needs to settle. No idea of temps at this point. It will really suck if I have to open it all up again...

how do your temps look? it soundsl ike it might not be fully stable at 2.26 with the stock voltage. happen to jot down the batch number? maybe it's an earlier one.

that said, if it's stable enough to get into windows initially, you can have rmclock limit the max multi to 16x and see if that helps. otherwise, you may need to perform voltmod as your solution.

do note that voltmod will cause the other vids to be all over the place for the most part, so do note what a proper low value would be, so you can set accordingly.

See if you can make out this pic

http://i12.ebayimg.com/01/i/000/ab/19/184a_1.JPG

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http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...MEWN:IT&ih=003

Is rmclock a Program? Link to voltmod?

I know the GPU is fine, got a reading of 52c in nVidia's program. I have nothing loaded on it to give me CPU temp that I know of, was looking to download MBM5 when I got the first error and then it reboots. I've tried reseating the memory just in case. Got in long enough to run the nVidia OC GPU test...went fine...then a minute later same error and reboot.

If the only thing you've changed is adding a pinmodded processor, then that is most assuredly the problem. Rmclock is a program to control different aspects of your processor among other things. It will not let you set a voltage higher than stock because of physical limitations but like ziddey said, you need to try to limit the maximum multiplier. I suppose intel could implement shunt loading capacitors to make voltage interact a little better with software but I imagine they know exactly what theyre doing with their processors.

I thought the whole idea was just dropping in a 1.6-1.7 with the pin mod and off you go in most cases, from what I've read in the thread at least. I'd be interested in learning about any volt mods (which I was under the impression were more common with the faster CPU's)

I did get RMClock loaded ad it's been up and running Windows (no games or anything) all night @2.13Ghz. I'll see if it can run a game all day while I'm at work...