Well, I had my dad hold a screwdriver to shove the wires in while I popped the top back on. Looks good so far. I'm going to let it sit for awhile and go have some dinner and see if it starts flickering later. I think that if you just play with the wires, rearrange them a bit, and shove them in good enough, they'll stay when you put the top panel back in.

Great job, Kaido. I think you can move the screen up and down to see if its flickering. At least in my case, that procedure used to be the acid test to see quickly if the problem is still there, rather waiting for the flicker to occur.

Also, I think, probably it would be better to use a electrical tape to bunch those wires together. Then it will be easier to manage. I didn't do this though. It occurred to me later on...

Yup, it passed the screen open/close test. yay!

I think electrical tape is a good option, but I haven't figured out the best way to put it on. Some of the material in there is metal, some is plastic. I don't know how well the tape would hold on or for how long, but I will give it a try if I get any more flicker. It seems that shoving it in there works pretty well since it doesn't have anywhere else to go (at least I hope it's lodged in there and not just waiting to pop out if I close the screen too hard). Oh well, dumb design. If anyone else has a good idea on how to keep the wires down there really well, let's hear it! I want a good procedure for fixing this problem for good.

On a seperate note, the new Realtek drivers are really good! They added a lot of volume and quality to my 7405gx's speakers. I was just listening to 'Boulevard' by Green Day, what a difference!

Great.. I was anxious to see if the procedure really works or I was just lucky. Now we know..

Now its ZeroT's turn to validate the process..

Has anyone taken into consideration that the metal foil tape covering the monitor wires may be somehow arcing with the underside of the top panel metal?

I don't know if the tape is metal or not, but if it is, that's a good point. However, when I popped mine open, the outermost wire looked pinched (dented inward in the middle) and now that I've shoved the wires back and put the top on, I've been flicker-free.

Oh it's so nice, good job pdasg on finding a fix

hahaha, right after I posted that I moved the screen a bit and it started flickering for about 10 seconds. gaaahhhh!!!

I think the movement from the screen makes the wires pop out and get crimped again. Oh well, surgery after work

I'm actually beginning to think it may be some sort of grounding issue or perhaps a component problem on the inverter/step up PCB thinger. It seems to be very sensitive to movement. If I jiggle the left wire with the LCD front panel off it will flicker.

It could be a shorting issue too. I don't understand the metal insulation of these wires. I also don't understand all the tape that looks to be conductive as well.

OMG this is a sign of Arima being shitty. No more Arima notebooks for me. From cracking hinges, craptastic EnE PCMCIA chips, to LCD backlights that go bad in less than a year, and BIOSes that are so buggy as to cause OS problems....

#1 - Never buy a notebook with an Alps touchpad. #2 - Never buy an Arima-built notebook.

I agree and disagree with you, swaaye. This machine definately has it's little quirks, but I think if you look at any machine as intimately as we do here you'd see problems. Although Arima chassis seem to have more than their fair share sometimes

I still haven't figured out what to do about the screen flicker. I've had it twice since post #21. Maybe...maybe if I tried wrapping electrical tape around each wire, then shoving it back into place and putting a piece of tape across those to hold them in place, then reassembling it. I hadn't tried messing with the left wire, maybe that's the cause of this whole problem. If I were Arima, I would create a curved tube, like half a donut, out of plastic and run the wire through there so that it's properly insulated and protected from other pieces of equipment. I'd also make the wires a bit longer to give them a bit more slack -- I'm wondering if the wires are just short enough so that they are loose most of the time but stretched out a tad when moved to certain positions, resulting in a partial connect to the screen or motherboard.

Is their anyone in town who fixes laptops on a regular basis? What about them guys over at GPC? Maybe they know what the problem is.

I figured out how ARIMA "fixed" my screen flicker.
I moved my laptop to another room to test for the wireless mbps issues (another thread). As I opened and closed the lid- it squeaked more that I ever remember.
I also noticed that the screen "lifted" a little.
Picture picking up your laptop up by the screen while it is in a 90 degree angle.
It actually is loose!
I wonder if this is thier solution to the flicker? Loosening up the the brackets that secure the LCD to the base?
If anyone gets a chance - see if you have any play by pulling up on the edge of your LCD next to the hinges. Mine almost appears to lift up on the power button cover.

There are actually two screws holding the monitor to the hinge. This is not normal. You should have no play up and down with the monitor. If it does then the screws are loose. I found all four were loose in mine. Not anymore

Send it in or remove the screen bezel and tighten them yourself.

you mean the bezel with the power button- correct?
When I was testing the "play"- the screen started flickering again. I did it again, and it stopped.

I insulated the left wire that runs into the LCD entirely with electrical tape all the way to the connector on the mobo. No flicker anymore for me for hours.

I think it was shorting somewhat, or a ground was being messed with, against either the plate under the keyboard or the heatsink assembly of the CPU.

In regards to loosening hinge screws, yes they do loosen. I've tightened mine before. While putting the electrical tape on I also put some non-permanent thread locker on those hinge screws. It looked like the screws had already had some thread locker on them, but it was poor stuff and didn't work. Another Arima misstep

No no. I was refering to the loose hinges.

The screws are only visible when you take off the screen bezel (the piece of plastic that perimeters the LCD screen). It is not the power panel. There are rubber plugs that need to be removed carefully, 4 screws underneath those plugs and then it pops off with a little coaxing. There is a bit of double sided tape at the bottom and sides underneath the plastic bezel. Be aware of it.

Be carefull if you do all of this as you could break something like the plastic.

Better yet call it in and tell them it is loose. If they say it's normal then you can complain a bit more cause it ain't.